Mornington Sanctuary and Charnley River on the Gibb River Road

 
From Mt Hart we headed further west along the Gibb River Road to the turn off for Mornington Sanctuary which is 90 km off the GRR. This is an AWC run nature reserve. I'm not going to run the sales pitch on you as you can find plenty of that on their website. The road in is about 60km of flat, very dusty stuff thru a station with some very skinny looking cattle. Not a lot left for the poor buggers to eat. The road then gets a bit windier as you enter the reserve and plenty more interesing with lots of trees incd boabs and heaps of grasses. Plenty creek crossings with water as well. The campground is shaded but very dusty and was very busy the evening we arrived. Seemed to be much quieter thou by the time we left so I think the season here is slowing down and impacted by Covid cancellations for sure. It was census night so we went and filled in our forms and had a couple of beers to help with that. Really nice bar and restaurant there but pretty expensive for a family of 4. They get some high end tours and glamping there so good market for that. Great range of beer as well - so nice to not drink out of a tinnie for a change!!

We explored the Sir John Gorge area on the first day including the really informative termite trail - did you know that termites are the main grass eaters of the Australian Savannah ie they are the wildebeest and bison/buffalo of this area. Some of the mounds are massive and support a vast array of birds, lizards, and insects. Also visited the wetlands which was pretty much a muddy puddle at this time of the year. Sir John Gorge was brilliant thou. We walked up it as far as we could until the cliffs got too high to rock hop. Had the whole place to ourselves and the birds. Went for a few swims to cool down. The river that runs thru the gorge is the Fitzroy and there was so much water running. Listened to a bowerbird terretorial song bounce and echo across the gorge. Not sure if he realised it was an echo!! Loads of beautiful paperbarks fringe the edges and then above the sandstone cliffs and rock platforms the spinifex starts so once again just beautiful colours. There are also some massive boabs around. On our way back we stopped at the Bluebush Waterhole for another swim and relax along the edge of the water. So peaceful.

Next day we hired a canoe (fits 4!) and paddled up the Dimond Gorge. This was just amazing. Surrounded by huge tall sandstone cliffs, amazing paperbarks, hunting osprey, little waterfalls and beaches. So much fun. Heard a sandstone shrike thrush make the most amazing sounds as well. Went for a couple of short swims but the water was freezing!! Must be geeting acclimatised!

We stopped into Cadjeout waterhole of the way back. This has to win the award for the best chill out spot of the trip. The kids played on the rope swing into the very deep creek, which was lined with massive paperbarks some of which were flowering so there were heaps of little honey eaters flitting around. There was even grass and a sandy little beach and the backdrop of a huge sandstone range. Could happily stay there for days ... but we have a schedule to keep!

Last day at Mornington we strolled along Annie's creek which is next to the campground. I think I saw a freshawater croc behind our campsite one afternoon but I went to get the others and he was gone when we came back. We did see a purple crowned fairy wren which is the most beautiful little cheeky bird and very rare as they rely on riparian (riverside) habitat which has been decimated across the savannah areas of Australia by feral animals (think anything with a hoof). So exciting :) twitch twitch!! we returned to Cadjeput that afternoon for some more chillaxing. Attended the presentation that evening (another excuse to have a beer from the bar) and learnt all about what the AWC are trying to save out there.

From Mornington we drove across 150km to the north (crossing the Gibb river Road for a couple of kms)to Charnley River. What a change in scenery from open graslands and spinifex to much more wooded areas and rolling hills. Not as spectacular as Mornington but very varied bush so really good to see even if it's in its peak dry season state with many of the waterholes dried up. The campground thou is one of the best. Green grass under the shade of some very pretty Northern Salmon Gum trees and shade all day long plus hot showers and flush toilets. Ahhhh. We have little agile wallabies visit in the afternoon, heaps of crimson finches, douple barred finches, corellas and red tailed black cockatoos as well. At night all the frogs come out so need to watch your step plus they light a communal fire too.

Yesterday we went and explored Grevillea Gorge which is very lush and beautiful cut in the sandstone. Would have been great to be able to get down and explore the gorge but it's closed off for some reason. Went for a swim at the aptly named Lily ponds which are looking a bit sad now and think in another couple of weeks will be very stagnant. Did see a Merten's water monitor there thou! From there drove onto Dilli Gorge where we finally saw some bustards (Australia's heaviest flying bird at 4.5kg) and swam in the gorge which was very stunning and surrounded by some beautiful bush with heaps of bloodwoods, boabs and massive paperbarks.

Today we're doing jobs like blog, journal, photos and washing. Everything has a faint (or not so faint really) red 'glow' on it now from all the dust. We even had to wipe the dash off today as couldn't put anything up there without getting a crusty, dusty layer on it. Sitting here under the trees, we're the only people in the campsite for the last few hours and it's just very lovely place to be on a Monday afternoon!

Next stop Derby or Broome we think. There are a heap of other gorges off the Gibb River Road but we've decided to go find some coast and more of WA since we actually have got this far!!