Kakadu Summary

 Oh how could I have ever doubted that Kakadu wasn't worth a visit. It's an amazing place despite all the media reports of mismanagement etc.

We drove in on Monday 24th stopping at the wetlands (Mamukala) which was a lovely lunch stop despite the heat. Beautiful lagoon with plenty birds and fish thou didn't see any crocs! Did see a Jacana or Jesus bird as they are also known as they appear to walk on water (actually they walk on lily pads) and have the longest toes in proportion to their body size of any bird I think.  After a quick visit to the visitor centre to book our Yellow Water cruise and pay the park pass we headed onto Sandy Billabong which was a basic but lovely campsite. Located at the end of a 4WD 5km road so put off most people as well which was an added bonus. Mind you the mosquitos at sun down and for most of the night were pretty full on. It was stinking hot so decided to have early dinner and then went out to Nawurlandja Lookout for sunset which was incredibly spectacular as all the escarpment and Burrungkuy (aka Nourlangie but us white fellas screwed up the name and go it wrong so the Indigenous folks have asked to call it by the Burrungkuy name instead!). Just sooo huge and quiet and special place to be. 

Next day we headed off early towards Ubirr. Did the 6,5km Bardedjilidji walk near Cahills Crossing which went thru some funky sandstone formations, then along some really cool billabongs with heaps of water lillies and birds (and probably crocs!) then back along the river where we saw a massive croc on the far bank and some others as well. Also saw a sea eagle on it's nest and disturbed a male water buffalo which we didn't see as thankfully it went the other direction. Some guy on a fishing boat told us he saw it and it was massive. Yikes. The feral water buffalo, horses, cane toads, pigs are doing immense damage in the park. Such a delicate environment being really thrashed in some places by the invaders. 

From there we had lunch at Cahills Crossing and waited for the tidal surge which is 7m high. The crossing is something like 60km from the sea but the tidal surge is huge so we went from watching crocs lying in the mud to the water rushing over the causeway. The crocs then line up at the other side with their mouths open waiting to catch the fish. They do this weird hands out and up thing as they have very sensitive hands so can feel the fish to catch them. It was very exciting spectacle added to by some keen fishermen standing very close to the edge and some dudes in utes driving across when the water was pretty high as well. The other side is by permit only as aboriginal access only allowed. 

We then headed onto the art work at Ubirr and the incredible 360 lookout over the stone country, floodplains and paperbark forests in between. Between art and nature it was such a place to visit despite the 35+ temps. Grabbed an ice cream at Jabiru and then went to see the rock art and shelters at Burrungkuy. Such history and cultural significance in both places. Good to see such a strong culture still remains. 

Next day we packed up and drove out to Jim Jim Falls. The 50km road has a terrible reputation but nothing worse then we've seen. Some corrugations but very manageable. The falls are immense. Like stupendously immense, We decided to do the climb up to the top of the escarpment thru monsoon rainforest which was very steep and hot. Saw a cool Noisy Pitta tho. Got the top and met some folks who told us the walk to the top of the falls wasn't too bad so we decided to do it. Was 2km over rocky exposed but some shady bits and the view (albeit it smoke haze limited) was unbelievable. Even managed a swim in a pool at the top! Walked back the 3kms and then upto the base where we went to the beach side of the falls. There's a rock clamber to get there but then there's this white sandy beach and beautiful cool pool full of fish that nibble your toes (oh and a small angry freshwater croc that some people allegedly heard). You can lie back and look up at 200m sandstone walls. Words fail me here. It's just such an experience. We were totally buzzing after it. Also saw a gorgeous green tree snake which was a vibrant yellow!

Camped near Yellow Waters at Mardulak which was really lovely. Showers and flush toilets so nice :) 

Got up at 5.45 to do the sunrise cruise over the Yellow Water Billabong. Another stunning experience watching the sunrise over the wetlands with 1000s (really!) of whistling ducks, jabirus, sea eagles, night herons and juveniles, magpie geese, egrets of all sizes and CROCS everywhere! Around the boat, on the bank, behind us and in front of us. Such an intimidating beast but so cool to see from the safety of the boat. After the cruise we packed down and headed to Maguk campground and plunge pools. Very busy campsite with only 1 toilet for way too many people. Quickly became a very short long drop (A long drop is a very big long hole in the ground with a toilet on top and normally the contents are a long way down but not when there's a lot of people about). Maguk plunge pool was stunning, beautiful walk in thru the paperbark forest and along the creek ending at the pool which is really deep and coolish and has a waterfall at the end. I took some bad photos but its so much better in real life. Plenty dingos at the campsite ripping thru careless campers rubbish bags that night. 

Also it was sooo hot like 35C plus everyday and nights over 20 as well so we slept with just the fly on the tent which made the best ceiling ever watching the incredible night skies. I have literally given up counting the number of shooting stars I see every night. 

All in all Kakadu was such an outstanding highlight with incredible scenery and vast landscapes with nature and rock art in one place. If you can get anywhere in Oz at all this should be near the top of your list as it's truly a special place. Wish we had some more time and would love to see it just after the wet like I did 22 years ago as a backpacker with John, Tara, Karen and Declan!