Western Australia!!

We've arrived in Kununurra, its 37c but happy to be here and allowed across the border. Well update with more details of the last week in the next few days

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Darwin food

Darwin was like a luxury holiday within our holiday. Staying with Bonnie and Dan in their awesome apt with a pool, at the very conveniently located Cullen bay. Thanks for putting us and guiding us to all the best spots. 

Aside from a couple of days visiting industrial estates to try and get some hardware to fix roof rack and stove we also did the Super waterslides at leanyer, waterfront strolls along the Esplanade and the really good museum full of People and natural history, plus a huge gallery of boats which was fascinating. 

Food stole the Darwin show thou. Freshly caught Barramundi from Dan for dinner when we were camping in Kakadu. Hope spoilt are we!!! Best curry and pasta dinners of the trip. 

The markets and sunset beach dinners were the best. Did fish n chips at Cullen bay (largest portion of chips for $6 ever), freshly cooked pizza at night cliff and the market at mindle for delicious laksa, green honeypuffs, baklavas, vanilla slice, samosas and spring rolls not in that order! The hardest part was choosing!!

We also did the morning markets at Parap and Rapid Creek. The laksa at Mary's in Parap markets was the best according to Laura the laksa connoisseur. There was also heaps of other stuff like chicken satay, Cambodian rice balls and loads we couldn't sample. Rapid Creek was an amazing sensory overload. Like being in South East Asia Street with the fresh Asian greens and food available. Didn't recognise a lot of the stuff and didn't have room for it in the camping rig but we did try some green papaya salad which was made in front of you. This is one of my favourite dishes ever I think. Laura had a Thai noodle soup which she said was nearly but not quite better then laksa at Parap. And Ciara tried dumplings which were also yum!! It was great sharing all these flavours with the kids and giving them a taste of overseas despite not being able to travel overseas. 

Probably one of the best five days we've had eating for quite a longtime!!

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Heading towards Western Australia

Spent the last 4 days in Kakadu. What a place. The scale of natural beauty and grandeur plus the cultural sites make it a real top highlight of the trip so far. Despite 35+ day time temperatures and over 20+ at night we managed to get a lot done. I'll do a proper post in the next few days. 

Today (Friday 30th) we head towards Western Australia hoping to cross the border at Kununurra either late this afternoon or tomorrow morning if we get to Keep River national Park in time to get a campsite. Excited!!! Have our border passes for covid and think we have eaten all illegal good like the honey and onions! 

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Darwin

 Arrived in Darwin on Tuesday after a really fun morning exploring Edith Falls which is part of the Nitimiluk NP near Katherine. What a place. We did the 3km loop walk to swim at the upper pools and they were just mind blowingly beautiful and also very refreshing. Had a lovely picnic on the green shady grass down the bottom then headed to Darwin past 1000s of termite mounds of all shapes and sizes.

Been in Darwin a few days now and loving it altho we have spent a lot of time fixing the roof rack and resupplying the car for the next leg of the journey. Staying with Bonnie (Dunk's cousin) and Dan who live in a gorgeous apt in Cullen Bay overlooking the sea and harbour. It's also walking distance to Mindle markets, the museum, has a swimming pool and the guys are just the best hosts. 

So the boring, fixing the car stuff took most of 2 days but thankfully we had a shaded car port to work in. After a bit of research looks like rivets and rough roads are an incompatible solution so we've now moved the roof rack back onto the canopy and ubolted the racks and cage to the roof of the canopy. Looks like it should be ok but I guess time will tell. We've also used metal epoxy to fix the toolbox, been told the windscreen needs replacing so will hold out on this as long as we can as I'm sure we'll get more stone chips. 

Its show day in Darwin but we went to the local cafe for huge and very tasty coffee and thickshakes. Also fed the fish there which was good fun. Went to museum as well and learnt about Cyclone Tracy and Sweetheart the Crocodile. Going back tomorrow for more fun. 

Went to the best free waterslide and park yesterday in Leanyer. What a superb facility for everyone to share. Green grass, slides for little kids and big kids alike and shaded picnic tables plus a massive wide pool especially for kids. The slides were so much fun tho one of them was completly dark so both me and Dunk only did that one once as we nearly got sick! Very disconcerting flying down a water tube and not being  able to see!

The food and markets here are incredible. Went to the Ski Club on Tuesday when we arrived for chicken parmy, beers and amazing sunset. Sampled some of Dan's barramundi Wednesday night. Yummo! Last night went and had laksa on the beach at Mindle and did the night markets which are just a foodie dream. Soooo much choice. Also got the biggest and best vanilla slices ever and Greek baklava, and mini doughnuts (profiterjis?) slathered in honey and cinnamon. I'm hungry just thinking about it. Tomorrow morning thinking of the markets at Parap - who doesn't want noodles for breakfast!! Tonight picnicing on the local beach and watching the sunset if the kids ever get out of the pool. And we might just have to the markets again Sunday!!

Had a bit of drama walking back from the markets about 50m from the apt block. There was a lady who had just been bitten by a snake. Her partner seemed to be in shock and was saying it's ok she can walk it off but we told them to call an ambulance and waited with them til it arrived. Dunk got a compression bandage from the car and she was till fine after 15 mins when the ambulance arrived so think it was probably non venomous but always best to check it out. Quite ironic to think we've been in the wilds for nearly 3 weeks yet encounter a snake bite situation in the heart of the city.

Next week we leave the fantastic hospitality, luxury and comfort of Bonnie and Dan and head back out into Kakadu before heading west to Western Australia which will hopefully stay open borders til we cross. Who knows at the moment with bloody covid. 

Highly recommend Darwin for a visit, heaps to do and the food markets alone are worth it. We have also seen quite a few industrial estates on our mission (failed so far) to find a piece for the gas stove but we can work around it for now.

Feeling very lucky right now!!

Smooth sailing ... or not

So just in case you think it's all fun, games, adventures, swimming in gorgeous pools, watching beautiful night skies with shooting stars and rocking out the times tables during the long drives, there have been some hiccups along the way! Here are some of our first world dramas ....

Broken tent door zip - inconvienient and fingers crossed the zip on the other side of the door doesn't go as well.
Stove valve leaking - probably after a day of corrugations so now we have to disconnect the stove after use until we get an inline valve in Darwin.
Big chip in the windscreen thanks to an inconsiderate muppet who didn't slow down passing us on a narrow, gravel road. Hasn't spread thankfully and we'll get it sealed properly in Darwin.
Back seat catch no longer working so we have cable tied it to the hook. This means the kids seat doesn't squash them on every bump. Cable ties are just the best!
Cracked weld on a under tray toolbox. That's what we get for buying a piece of cheap ass Chinese one. Another job for Darwin. Hopefully epoxy putty will fix that.
Broken inside upper door handle/coat hanger. Not meant for a bloke to hang his full body weight off isn't that right Dunk!
Broken roof rack. This is the biggest problem. Thinking of moving the rack back onto the canopy as we can't trust the claws and I'm sure we will see heaps more corrugations yet. Another job for Darwin.
And the ultimate problem - leaking beer cans. We have learnt how to put a hole in a beer can tho by placing it next to a food can on rough roads. Not a fun find! We also sprung a leak in another couple by putting them next to a bolt head (it was even round) so won't be doing that again!

As for the roads ...
Normanton to Bourketown - half sealed but pretty good condition
Bourketown to Hells Gate was mostly sealed and in really good condition.
Hells Gate to Borroloola, unsealed and not too bad except for a massive 50m pothole of bulldust 5km west of the border crossing. It was large enough to swallow a donkey!!
Borroloola to Lorella Springs. Ok this was a new level of corrugation we haven't really seen before. Big wide ones that were just numbing and loud and painful to drive across. This tested everything in the car and that's where the roof rack went (althou possibly its been on the way for awhile we just hadn't noticed). It'd be pretty rough with a caravan but we did see plenty trailers seem to handle it ok.
In Lorella Springs we had a lot of bull dust but mostly ok corrugations. Plenty low 4WD stuff as well but as long as you went low and slow especially on the creek crossings it was ok.
North out to about 100km east of Mataranka was dirt and corrugations, dips and bulldust. Slow and rough goimg on the vehicle and aside from the roof rack we went ok.

Lorella Springs, Limmen NP and Elsey NP

 

We left Borroloola early on Sunday morning, stopping at Caranbirini Reserve about 45km west. It was an amazing spot with many different geographical zones and habitats in a very small area. The main highlight were the stunning sandstone formations and columns that we walked thru which was intermingled with flowering gums and grevilleas with orange, wine, white, yellow flowers. Stunning colours and contrasts but glad we went early as it was hot at the end of the 7.5km walk. Heaps of paperbarks and ghost gums in the drier sections. Loads of birds down at the lagoon including green backed pygmy geese.

From there we headed north to Lorella Springs. It was about 150km of unsealed corrugations and bull dust. Unfortunately the roof rack claws failed half way there so we had to do some road side repairs in about 35C of dry heat. Most people slowed down but there were a couple of Richards who choose to cloud us in dust.

Camped at the homestead which was heaving by NT standards - we still had about 50m between camp groups but the toilets overflowed so went remote camping for the next 4 days. We decided to base ourselves at the entrance to Ship Creek Valley. It was a long day of some very rough corrugations and bull dust plus our initial attempt to find a nice place to swim was not a success. We did go for a paddle in the canoe at Crocidile Springs which was a gorgeous billabong shaded by gigantic paper barks. Drove to Fossil Fern pool then but was stagnant. It reallly dries up fast in this area. After lunch we went to a place called Waterslide and Indiana Falls which was fanatastic cool deep pools embedded in the rock which you could slide down between. Fantastic fun and must be epic earlier in the season.

Eventually found a place to camp which was pot luck and probably the best site around the area we choose to explore. Next to a lovely fresh creek, shaded by trees, heaps of frogs and birds. Saw Masked and Long Tailed Finches for the first time. Very exciting plus a couple of snakes and heard barking and boobok owls at night. The skies were so clear and saw shooting stars every night. NT sunsets are to be seen to be beleived. Just a kaleidoscope of colour and changes over 20-30 minutes. We spent 4 nights camping there.

Explored up into Ship Creek valley and climbed a rocky hill covered in spinifex so the girls got to wear gaitors in anger for the first time. Brilliant views of the whole station at  the top. We then bashed across and thru a swamp where the reeds/spinifex/bushes where definitely as tall as me so the kids were chewing dust but didn't know better to complain. Cooled off with a swim in the pools which was just glorious.

Next days explored Valley of Ghosts. Full of limestone formatons and caves. Found this fantastic waterfall which went thru a gorge and has natural staircase we could climb up and sit on. Heaps of rock art and fun clambering about on. Very hot in the afternoons thou so we just sat around the camp site chilling out.

On the last day we explored Nanny's Retreat area which is an outstandingly beautiful sandstone gorge fed by fresh water springs and pretty deep and clear as well. Reckon the deepest bit was 3-4m and so clear. Kids loved it. We bashed up and found our own personal pools to swim in first thou. Was so much fun exploring all the sandstone caves and features and then finding this amazing pool with noone around at all. Yopu'd be almost tempted to skinny dip ESPECIALLY if it shocked and embarrased the kids beyond belief. BUT I'd never do something like that ;)

Drove out of Lorella Springs on the the Friday, stopping for an ice cream and a dip in the magical hot spring near the homestead. Also to sign out as they send a search party if you don't turn up on the expected day (charging $500 a day or something).

Lorella Springs is an incredible remote experience. We mostly avoided the crowds and the rough road conditions put off all but the most willing (foolhardy?) to risk some damage to vehicle. We only explored one area but could easily spend a month here as there's about 1000km of track to drive around. Some folks choose to drive from place to place but after 5 days in the car on mostly dirt (maybe 1500kms from Karumba) and a bust roof rack plus over the driving kids we based in one place. Perfect for us to explore by foot which is always so rewarding. There are other areas like the beach, an area of billaongs and swamps, more ranges (we stuck to the Yiyinti) and formations so much to do. Probably not the place for a caravan (we saw one sitting sadly with a seriously busy axle) but plenty trailers and tents. So glad we did it.

From there we drove onto the Southern Lost City in Limmen NP. After the excitement and adventure of Lorella, we didn't have hugh expectations but the scenery and place was just so beautiful. Its full of towers and columns of sandstone which have been eroded over millions of years. Great little basic campsite with drop toilets (a nice break from the ole shovel and hole in the ground!) but just the most stunning location looking onto the sandstone city. Loads of birds and fruit bats at night. Saw a humongous couple of spiders in the information shelter. Think grey hairy tarantula!! Did a night walk and sat between the columns watching the moon go down over them. Incredible. Campsite was $7.70 per family hahaha!

Next day we drove north stopping at Butterfly Falls for a swim. Its a big cleft in the rock with a deep and very cold pool at the bottom for a breath taking dip. Surrounded by massive paperbarks and screeching cockatoos. Really nice campsite but we decided to press on. Met a couple who told us that Katherine and Mataranka was full to the brim so unless we drive in early we'd be 'homeless'. Instead we decided to go slow and lunched on the verandah at Nathan River Ranger Station (which has its own little airstrip). Very pleasant and cool and heaps of info on the history, geology, flora and fauna of the region. Eventually camped at Roper Bar which has two turds of SFA unless you like fishing but it was a very peaceful, quiet place with flushing toilets and cold showers. There was a couple parked up watching the AFL on satelite in between fishing in the creek. We did see a fresh water croc on one of the creek crossings as well. Oh and we completely broke the roof rack which is now tied down to the underneath of the car with a tie down strap. Piece of poo. The rivets broke and we don't think we overloaded the rack, just hit some very bad corrugations over the course of the last 10 days.

Now in Elsey NP which is lovely (althou soooo dry) Mataranka is a sad little place with a very obvious alcohol issue with some of the local indigenous. Bitter Springs makes an epic place to swim thou and we got some pool noodles and floated up and down the very warm springs. So deep and clear and amazing colours. Pretty fun. Sitting around waiting for the day to cool down and doing some admin before heading north to Darwin on Tuesday!

In Elsey national Park near Mataranka

Back on sealed roads after a lot of corrugations and bull dust in the last week. Have had an amazing time in lorella Springs and limmen national Park. 

Have no internet access or phone at the campsite so just sending a quick message to say we're back from the wilds and aside from being very dusty, sightly smelly and a few broken things on the car we're very good. About to go for a swim at bitter Springs. Heading to Darwin mid week so will post photos and blog from there. 

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Made it to the NT

 Wahoo we finally crossed the border so very happy. Stayed at Hell's Gate Friday night which is a really great, shaded roadhouse and campsite just 50kms before the NT border. There's an airstrip of dirt with cattle wandering about. The road from Karumba to there was mostly sealed or else really good unsealed. 

Today we drove to Borroloola which is 320km all unsealed and fairly corrugated. A good few river crossings and an epic patch of bulldust just over the border which threatened to swallow us up. It was pretty corrugated and some steep dips but all the crossings were good and clear. Passed heaps of people towing caravans and trailers which would have been a lot more hassles to drive. Usually they pull over pretty fast once they see you behind but that's not possible until they slow for something as they generate huge plumes of dust. Plenty idiots mostly heading east later in the day driving waaaay too fast. Saw one guy about 20km before Borroloola and we reckon his entire caravan contents will be smashed before he gets the first river crossing as he drove past at crazy speed and caravan bouncing and swaying all over the place. 

Got the first chip in the windscreen as well yesterday. Its pretty impressive but hasn't spread and is in an ok spot. Hopefully we can get it glued up someplace before it gets worse.

Staying at a nice caravan park in Borroloola (altho for $50 for a tent pitch is pretty close to Gold Coast prices) and about to jump in the pool! 

Off to Lorella Springs tomorrow so can't wait to get out bush again!

Heading to NT fingers crossed

Leaving karumba early in the morning. It's been a fun few days, eating prawns, watching fantastic sunsets, restocking the car with food, water & diesel and fixing everything we've broken already. Visited the Barramundi centre today which has a good overview of the area and collecting shells on the foreshore. Dinner and beers at the sunset Tavern was very relaxing. 

The plan now is to head back west via Normanton, Bourketown and overnighting at Hell's Gate which is the last stop before the NT border. Saturday drive over to the NT and spend a night at borroloola or cape Crawford before heading into the huge station at lorella Springs and a few days at limmen national Park before heading over the highway at mataranka. We'll have to drop 6 days of stuff around the way to catch up on lost time and fingers crossed we can still get into western Australia in 4 weeks time. A lot of unknowns yet.

So not sure when we'll post again, hoping it's going to get a bit quieter as well. So many Caravans and grey nomads here it's pretty hard to get in anywhere plus they are consuming all the diesel in every town!

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Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) NP

Spent 5 days in this beautiful national park located on the very far north western part of QLD. Features are a sandstone landscape cut through by a spring fed creek which has created a spectacular landscape. We hiked, swam and canoed up the gorges.

 

The river is lined with pandanus, melaleuca and the tops are covered in spinifex, grevilleas, ghost gums and blood gums making a stunning contrast of red, green, white against the blue sky backdrop. The river is a strange almost green/turquoise colour from the calcium carbonates dissolved in it. Full of turtles and fish and we saw heaps of birds including all sorts of honey eaters, the famous purple crowned fairy wren, whistling kites feeding their substantially large chick, buff sided robin, blue winged kookaburra (so much quieter and prettier then its southern cousin), crimson finch and at night heard barking owls and the fruit bats in for the flowering blood gums. 

Highlights were the amazing walks up and around the gorges. We walked 7-8km each, swam at Indarri Falls most days. These are stunning toopha falls created by some very interesting geological thing that I just can't remember. We also hired a couple of canoes and paddled upto the upper gorge including a portage around the Indarri Falls. I honestly think they had rocks in those canoes along with a bucket for bailing water out cos they had so many leaks. At least there were only fresh water crocs in the creeks! It was so amazing tho paddling and coasting along between these massive red sandstone cliffs. We also got plenty time on each section to ourselves which was super. We did a senset on the Island Stack which was stunning and got up before dawn one morning to see the sunrise from Duwadarri lookout over the campsite. Oh we did a sunset from there as well. 

Would have loved to do another few days but couldn't book a campsite despite there being empty sites. Obviously some people didn't cancel which is very frustrating. 

Absolutely incredible spot, highly recommend but just book your camp site a long time in advance!

Karumba

Tonight and for the next two nights were in karumba. It's basically a hot, dry, dusty fishing town at the southern end of the gulf. Not a lot to do here except fish and eat fish and watch glorious sunsets over the sea which are truly amazing. 

It's jam packed with Caravans and tourists but found a dry dusty patch in one of the quieter van parks which is walking distance to the sunset viewing stretch.

Normanton was more interesting. Great little train museum explaining the history of the gulflander which still runs to Croydon, the visitor Centre has heaps of info as well plus lots of historic stuff around. The wetlands are full of Birdlife and saw our first salty!! It was on the other side of the river but still cool to see. Saw a heap of birds including brolgas, magpie geese, the very rare Sarus crane and whimbrels (which migrate to Siberia!!). 

Found a bakery, butcher and summer fresh fruit and veg and tomorrow on the hunt for some seafood given the number of professional fishermen in the area! 

It's very balmy here. 30 daytime, 18 at night. Not winter as we know it!

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Normanton

Staying in balmy, relaxed slightly wild West feeling Normanton. Just managed to get into a caravan Park with a fantastic (but cold!) 25m swimming pool. 

There are advantages to being in the very small minority traveling with no trailer or caravan! 

Faced off some wedge tailed Eagles on the road today ... They are so huge and very reluctant to give up their road kill menu..

Off to karumba tomorrow for another adventure. Sitting around the tent in shorts and tshirts in the middle of winter at 9pm is very sweet!

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Back of the pub at Gregory downs for a night

Staying out the back of the pub at Gregory downs. We're right at the very back of the campsite and have an epic view of the night sky. Loads of shooting stars. Makes up for the broken toilets 😂

Heading north towards karumba tomorrow just need to find a place to stay as so much stuff booked out. Find a place in Karumba for 3 nights starting Tues. Then end of week we can head into northern territory having done 14 days away from Brisbane covid hotspot. 

Update on lawn hill at some stage in the next few days.

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Re: Heading to boodjamulla lawn hill national Park

Heading into lawn hill today. Amazing drive so far to Burke and wills junction. Spinifex and red dust, narrow roads etc.

Stayed at Corella creek farmstay last night. We literally camped with about 100 goats, 500 ducks and chickens, a few cows. Also 50m from the train line with huge long trains passing all night. 

The reviews said rustic. Friendly woman but seriously rough unless you like sleeping with the animals.. I wouldn't go back. The free camp at Julia creek was $50 cheaper and way better looking 

Looks like Brisbane in lockdown. Wonder what that means for us. Better figure it out. 

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Re: First couple of days attempt 2

Quick Summary is we're in Charters Towers after about 1400km, 16 hrs driving and a total re reroute due to some of the back roads north of Aramac being shut due to recent rains.

Today we head directly west to Neila to stay at Corella Creek campsite near Julia Creek.

Didn't get to Lake Dunn unfortunately as we would have had to back track south (and then head towards Winton)as all the roads north from there were closed.We stayed at a cabin in Biloela on Saturday night which was great not to have to put up the tent as had a huge day driving. A closure on the Bruce Highway held us up and we detoured via Maleny then had a very scenic drive up thru the Mary Valley and onto Monto.

Saw the Big Mandarin at Gayndah and the Big Easel at Emerald which looks like a lovely spot even thou we only briefly stopped at the visitors info centre so that the 'helpful 'lady dissuaded us from going to Lake Dunn (we still think we'd have made it but could have been slow). Lesson here is person with Irish accent shut up as she straight away thinks silly tourist driving an over sized two wheel drive camper van.

Staying at Darlymple Tourist Village caravan park which has fantastic grassy tent sites, bouncy pillow and very clean facilites plus a magic toaster which the kids loved. It has a "A Bit More" button :)

Kids have been awesome in the car. Audio and ebooks and "Your  Dead to Me" podcasts have been sanity saving.

Next two days should be shorter 5 hr drives into Lawn Hill. From there looks like covid could stuff up our plans but at least we got out of Brisbane ok (even if Laura did have to get a Covid test before we left

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Broken posts will fix in the next day or two .. Or three

Wonder if this one will work. Email posts seems buggered

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