Spent a couple of hours on sunday night squeezing everything (8 days food, all our stuff including about 8 books, Spanish notes, tent, sleeping bags, etc) into our packs - part of me thinks this was more tiring then some of the hikes to follow.
On monday morning, woke our landalady at the ridicously unsociable hour of 8am so we could get organised that day and get hiking asap as didn´t have anything to do in Chile Chico. Walked into town at 9am to try and find Ferdinando Giorgia at Expeditions Patagonia. Waited around for his office to open at 10 (nothing happens in Chile before 10) and managed to buy white spirits for the stove so didn´t have to resort to petrol (wahoo as petrol stinks for cooking). When his office did open and we managed to explain to the girl working there she gave us the card for her boss (whose office we are sitting in) with his mobile number and told us to ring him. Baffled as to why she couldn´t seeing as we´re in his office, off we trudged and Dunk managed to get the message across on the phone (its amazing how much we rely on gesticulation to get our pigeon spanish messages across). Met the guy in the office an hour later and he showed us some good shots and google earth images of where we were headed. For the princely sum of 70k pesos (US$140) he drove us out in his very antique land rover (alternative was to hitch - I think we would still be waiting).
We left at 2pm slightly later then we wanted but sure the days are very long here so no worries. The drive out was quite scenic, very dry patagonian steppe as we followed the argy-chile border (literally driving on the border where there is no controls or anything but dust really). Ferdinando dropped us to the campsite right at the western end of Lago Jeinimeni which was great as it was a damn hot day and our packs were massive so 10km 4wd track bash saved was very nice surprise. The lake itself is quite pretty and once we got over the initial shock of being bombarded by bucket loads of mossies and horse flies we found a sweet campsite next to a stream at the top of the lake. There was enough wind to keep away the hordes of biting insects and only had to carry our packs abput 1km which was enough as Dunk´s was about 26+kgs and mine not far off that.
On tuesday, we hiked up the Estero La Gloria river valley, over the White Horse Pass (Paso Caballo Blanco), past Lago Verde (good trail over the pass past the lake) which is a stunning green colour and reflections of snow capped mountains make it extra special, continued up the huge, wide flat valley and then up the Ventisquero Valley to the top to Lago La Gloria which is a kind of pale green colour, fed by a glacier and had the huge Cerro La Gloria over head. Very pretty. From there returned the way we had come - about 26kms all up so a pretty full on day mostly in the sun as well so tiring as it was very hot again.
On wednesday took it easier as were tired from the previous day. Climbed about a third of the way up La Gloria ridge for lovely views over both Lago Jeinimeni and Verde. Lunched next to the Lago Verde in the shade of a tree and hardly any biting insects. After that bashed upto some cascades which were lovely altho ended up with heaps of scratches as forgot our gaitors. In hindsight, we should have based ourselves at Lago Verde as the horse flies and mossies seemed less ferocious there.
On Thursday, it was down with the tent and on with the big packs to start the first day over Paso Leones. Another hot day beckoned so we set off before 9am only to be greeted by HORDES of mossies and horseflies for the first 2 hours. It was crap to be honest and the track crisscrossed the river heaps so slow going which meant the horseflies had loads of time to land. The first 5-6kms was heavy going with the packs as we climbed over lots of scree and slopes of dead trees from avalanches and rock falls. By much we were pretty tired (which is always depressing) but the valley started to open, lunch was good, the insects went on siesta and about 20 minutes later the scenery dramatically improved. Lots of dramatic mountains, forested sides, little lakes and grassy valleys made the easier going altho it was probably heading for 30C again. We camped just north of El Coironal Lake with great views all around.
Next day was downhill most of way. The first 6kms was easy as there was a great horse and cattle track to follow (ironic that when we left the national park track conditions were much easier and prettier) then the whole valley opened up into very dry grass lands (some of which probably had been cleared years ago by fires which damaged so much of Chilean Patagonia). We skirted high and found the occasional patch of trees to get some respite from the heat. By the time we got down into the Valle Chacabuco we were well covered in dust and sweat (such a lovely combination). Stood by the river pondering how to get on the road on the other side where we saw a 4WD slow to stare at us and thought "a bugga there goes our only chance of a lift". The next 30kms was a road bash along a very infrequently travelled road so we expected to have to walk it. Crossed the river at a wide spot and it was ok altho a strong current. Trudged on for about 6kms when just as we were about to stop at a shady tree to decide what to do, we nearly got trundled over by a truck. We were walking into a very strong head wind and couldn´t hear it. I think all our luck was with us that day as the guys were heading to Estancia Valle Chacabuco which was our dream ... wahooo no more road bashing. The drive in was lovely (especially cos we were knackered) altho the poor driver had my very smelly armpit hovering near his face as I tried not to fall onto him - he was very polite and never complained. The vally is all transitional steppe and full of guanacos which are slightly smaller then llamas and mostly light brown colours. They allowed us to camp for free at the estancia. Turns out that Douglas Tompkins (same guy who set up Park Pumalin) has bought the estancia out to link the 2 reserves so it will become one of the largest national parks in Chile and pretty important as the only area of transitional steppe that is protected. One of the guys from the truck was lovely and showed us the house and work they are doing there. Its going to very special place in a couple of years. Its amazing too cos never rains but only snows and all of it in winter yet theres plenty fresh water from the mountain snows.
Next day headed to Tamango Reserve. Met some of the volunteers who told us the previos 4 days were exceptionally hot for the area (as everyone in Cochrane keeps telling us too). Great hiking conditions not. Anyways set off and eventually reached the saddle between Cerro Tamango and Tamaguito (after some brief confusion about where the hell we were) in time for lunch. Incredible views and many bemused guanacos wheenying (that thing horses do but guanacos do it like they are either being squeezed very tightly or smoked too much pot) watching us sit on their territory. One was even perched on top of Cerro Tamanguito checking us out.
Climbed up Tamanquito after lunch for incredible views in all directions. Could see the northern ice cap, Reserve Tamango and all its lakes, Valle Chacabuco and all the mountains and ranges north of there, San Lorenzo massif (very spectacular high 3700m mountain on argy-chile border). Bashed our way down to Lago Elefantita after that which was really good going as the forest is quite open underneath and very pretty with nice green, floor and beeches. Collapsed in a tired heap at Lago Elefantita and camped with views of San Lorenzo and the lake. Very cool campsite and not so many insects either.
Next day did a morning stroll up to see Lago Tamango (about 4kms return) without packs, then walked around Lago Elefantita to the eastern side following a track which turned out was leading was down to Lago Cochrane so bashed our way back upto the top of the ridge overlooking Lago Elefantita (southern side). Slow enough going as was hot and loads of hidden knolls and knobs to drag those stupid packs over. By lunch completed the circuit of Lago Elefantita but decided not to do the range over Lago Tamango but to find the track we had already done that morning (scaring the crap out of the same ducks and geese again). We actually met another hiker later that afternoon .... wow think they are rarer then the huemel (rare patagonian deer). The track was like a freeway (altho very dusty) after Lago Tamango and people obviously use this part a bit more often. Also its a very steep descent into Cochrane but pretty cool views all the way.
A killer on the knees which brings me to the point that we know each own a walking pole. Shudder ya we joined the europeans whic our little ski pole and have to say its great for uphill, downhill, saves the knees, good for crossing rivers, testing mud depth and keeping husband in control ;) even if it does concede that we`re not so young anymore.
Staying in the Res Sur Austral where they gave us a welcome like we were rich fat tourists rather then being the exhausted, dusty, sweaty, bedraggled pair we really were. Only problem we had was that the water in Cochrane stopped for the whole town last night. I got lucky and managed to shower (another cold shower - noone seems to have the hot shower thing figured out down here but god I felt-smelt so much better after) but poor Dunk had to wait a couple of hours. Had a huge great dinner at the place and she feed us so well.
Chilled out in the heat again today. All in all a brilliant week. In hindsight we should have left stuff in Cochrane then went to Chile Chico and done the loop with lighter packs. Bringing mossie repellant would have been genius. Other then that everything was really fantastic and we had such a cool week. The areas we walked in are remote but easy and safe enough to navigate and walk thru yet noone seems to go there. The insects are a nuisance (I look like someone who had a fight with a pin cushion) but the scenery is just indescribably outstanding.
Off to Caleta Tortel next and then Villa O Higgins.
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