We managed to get organised really quickly in Coyhaique. Rented a car which we got at 6pm on the friday evening less then 24 hours since we had arrived in Coyhaique. So much for things taking time on the Carretas Austral. We got lucky and got a free upgrade as well from a small 3 door little thing to a larger 4 door with boot car as the car we were supposed to have hadn´t been returned. This was great really as we managed to explode the contents of our backpacks to fill the car and most of the time the car doubled as transport cum moving laundrette as we tried to keep our gear modestly dry.
Headed off north towards Villa Amengual via the very scenic drive past Rios Simpson Reserve. Both pretty nervous as we have´nt driven on the RHS very much and it was a brand new car. The road was sealed for about 100km and then we hit the gravel. It was awful ... big river rocks and scree greeted us once we left the sealed road. After about 20kms of the bottom of the car getting the crap kicked out of it, we pulled over and camped for the night in a scenic little spot between the hills past Villa Amengual.
Next morning we headed off into the clouds and dull cold weather pretty nervous about whether we should be driving this car on this road at all but checked all the paper work etc and didn´t see anything saying we couldnt (as if we have enough Spanish to figure this out). Anyways about 2kms into the drive the road improved dramatically and the gravel was much smaller less damaging grade so we relaxed a bit. Found a fab camp spot at Lagos Todos Santos where we should have stayed altho it was very exposed as we stopped for a 10 minute picnic on the way back and nearly got blown away. Headed straight thru Quelat NP as the clouds were down on us and we figured we´d do it on the way back. Eventually got to La Junta around 2pm and the weather changed dramatically and out came the sun. Up to this point we only had tantalising glimpses of the beauty behind the clouds but now all the glaciers, snow capped mountains, green and torquise rivers and lakes, beautiful Valdivian forest was apparent. We drove all day (for the 150th time questioning why and how we could have forgotten to bring tunes with us on the entire trip, probably our biggest mistake of the trip) and got to the south end of Park Pumalin. We camped at the Ventisquero camping area just south of Chaiten. Its an absolutely stunning setting with 5 camping areas to choose from in the 5kms plus length of valley. We choose the first camping area as you could see the massive glacier in one direction, and incredible snow capped mountains in the other direction. There was one other couple (cyclists) camped at the farthest camp area and other then that we had it all to ourselves. Unreal.
On the sunday, the morning was lovely and we walked out to a crater walk which climbed steeply to the top of the crater and wound down to the inside of this very extinct crater thru lovely forest. At the bottom there was a little pond with loads of nosy hummingbirds flying up to check us out. Really cool. After that we continued on and walked out to the massive valley with the glacier at the end. The guys from the previous day told us the river was very dangerous to cross but think they crossed in the wrong place as we made it across easily. Unfortunately the weather changed and it started to rain so we didn´t risk getting caught on the wrong side of the glacial river with no proper gear or food with us (sensible us eh). Drove north to Chaiten (a very basic, small, dreary port town) , stocked up on basic provisions and continued north. Stopped briefly at Santa Barbara beach which is all black lava sand, very beautiful, a good spot for wild camping andwe also saw some seals and dolphins again. Decided to head on as it was pretty exposed to the weather from the sea. Camped at El Volcan where we based ourselves for the next 3 nights. Another fab campsite with glacier and snow capped mountains views (which we briefly saw each day between the torrential rain).
We camped at the communal camp site which we shared with one other bloke and had the shelter to ourselves as he seemed to be happy out by hinself in his tiny tent. We also had cold showers every evening and I mean COLD - bloody artic temps but better then stinking our sleeping bags this early in the trip. Its more of a splash and dash for each body part except when I nearly got hypothermia rinsing my hair (long hair sucks for camping).
On monday, the weather was awful - cold, torrential rain, gales. We pitied the cyclists we saw out there. The forecast was awful for the week so we just headed out and did some short day walks that day. Spectacular walk at Cascadas Escondidas which winds up thru amazing forest of beech, alerce (really old trees ie 1000 years plus which have nearly been logged out - ah humans are so forward thinking), lenga etc plus mosses and lichens frowing on every tree, rock and ground surface available. The waterfalls were pretty impressive too. Did the alerce trail too but at that stage we were soaked right thru, bloody freezing so gave up and went for coffee. There´s a cafe at Caleta Gonzalo which is the end of the road and will be for a long time to come as the mountains just rise straight out of the fjord and go straight up so pretty difficult to get around that. For some reason they didn´t like wet (altho we had changed clothes by then), bedraggled walkers orcyclists in the cafe. Even tho we paid and drank the most expensive nescafe (Chileans dont do real coffee) and ate overly sweet chocolate cake (everything here has way too much sugar or dulce de leche (which is a sweet carmelly thing like super condensed milk but sweeter cos they probably add sugar)), we left after 30 minutes. There was 3 other cyclists there (amongst the drier, richer folks who obviously weren´t camping but staying in expensive cabins or lodges) who were doing an epic bike trip around south america and they managed to dry their clothes on the fire by sharing one coffee and cake between them and avoiding all subtle hints by the staff to leave. Very funny to watch.
On Tuesday, we decided to give the Senderos El Volcan (24km out and back to a glacier) a lash even tho the weather was once again awful. It was a stunning walk thru incredible forest covered in moss, ferns, huge trees, hummingbirds, owls, little wrens and other birds we dont know and climbing gently up over 12kms where you suddenly get to the end of the forest and onto glacier moraine. At that point we were drenched from walking thru ferns and wet drippy forest but the clouds rose high enough for 20 mins to allow us to see the glacier. So unreal and close (and it was so cold too) and what a great view for a quick lunch. Took us about 7 hours all up, probably quicker as it was so cold so the recommended 10-12 hours is a bit exagerated we think.
On Wednesday, headed back south in the lashing rain again to Park Quelat where we camped in a lovely little place with views of the famous Ventisquero Colgante (which means hanging glacier) surrounded by steep mountains. That night was very cold and it snowed on the mountain tops (not that far above us). The next day we walked up to the viewing point of the glacier above the valley which is truly spectacular. The glacier just hangs over a massive cliff in the mountains with a couple of waterfalls emptying out of it. Will post photos as words fail me here. Also tried to do another walk but Conaf (the Chilean national parks admin guys) hadn´t bothered to clear the trail for a long time so couldn´t get past the bamboo.
On friday, packed up early to head south and back to Coyhaique. Stopped at another walk (which was closed for maintenance but we jumped the sign as noone around). The walk headed up throu a narrow forested valley and then out on an open area which terminated in a glacial lake surrounded on 3 sides by steep rocky walls which were topped by snow and glaciers (which we briefly glimpsed thru the rain and clouds). Truly spectacular sight. The lake was filled with huge ice chunks from the glacier and also frozen over as temps were probably just above 0C so must have frozen the night before.
From there headed back to Coyhaique, where we (eventually) decided to stay in a really nice place called Hotel Austral (about 35 eur per night) which has continous hot water, ensuite, brekkie, loads of space for drying damp (wet) boots, clothes, sleeping bags and tent. Very welcoming place after a week in the cold and wet. In summary, Park Pumalin, to a lesser degree Quelat NP and the 420km drive each way is amazing despite the normally wet, cold weather and tough road conditions. Its peak tourist season here but yet it felt as if we had the place to ourselves. An incredible week of scenery, beautiful campsites and day walks. Highly recommended.
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