We set off as planned on monday morning at 9.30am on the bus heading south to Cochrane giving instructions to the bus driver to let us off about 30kms before Villa Cerro Castillo so we could start our 4 day hike in the Reserve Nacional Cerro Castillo. Bit of a cloudy day but clear enough to give good vistas of the rolling hills and mountains on the horizon. Stopped after about 2 hours driving (at 30kms per hour) in a tiny little place where we were told the bus was broken down so we had to wait for a replacement. Groan - we only had gone 60kms at the very most so sat on the side of a very windy road waiting for about 90 mins. Eventually the replacement arrived and set off at a rapid (40kms) speed so we got dropped at our stop about 30 mins later around 1.30pm slightly frustrated at the delay but hey its a lovely day and its bright til after 10 so all is good.
Day 1 of the walk was up a rough ish 4wd track along a lovely valley which opened up at the end to a stunning view of Cerro Castillo and the glaciers and snow hanging off it. Was a tough enough day as we had pretty massive packs - all our stuff, including books, food for 5 days etc as we didn´t want to waste time leaving gear stored anywhere. Eventually settled in a great little campsite and managed to set up before the rain hit us. Was damn cold that night but being pretty knackered we slept well!
Next day was stunning, clear skies all the way once some fog cleared off the heights. Hiked up to Glacier Penon (about 2 hours sidetrip) which was pretty amazing altho has clearly receded quite a bit from its original size. Had condors (or maybe king vultures) soaring the thermals above us and stunning views. Walked up and over a cold pass at about 1400m, about 500m of snow to slide over on the top of the pass along with some steep scree (Grace not happy with this) which we negotiated carefully. HAd lunch sitting under (well a bit away from) another glacier at the head of a beautiful valley with glaciers everywhere, stunning views of the bald, basalt, mountains and tree lined valley. After a few hours hiking down over some more boulders and scree, back into the trees, over a few rivers and then back up another valley where we pitched our tent in little hollow over which the Castillo Chico towered with another hanging glacier and beautiful cascade. Climbed the moraine at the side for a wonderful 360 view, then slide back down for a another sound sleep.
Day 3 was once again clear blue skies all the way. First we climed up above the valley we camped, over the beautiful turqoise lake (cant remember the name) with another overhanging glacier (yip their not extinct in Chile yet!) onto yet another pass (1600m) which was freezing on top once again with more snow. The other side was steep scree which descending was a bit like a snow plough all the way to the bottom (probably for about 45 mins, ouch burning legs with massive pack). After that there was 1.5km of the crappiest track along the river (just badly placed, rough, easy to get hurt and generally stupid place to put a track) then 3.5kms back up another valley thru beautiful lenga forest to the New Zealanders camp. Glorious place with a beautiful open grassy area at the head of the valley. Altho pretty tired did 2 hours scramble upto Laguna Duff which is surrounded by steep moraine, mountain sides and just a stunning turqoise blue colour with ice floes at one end. We did briefly contemplate a swim and got as far as stripping off, into the water as far as knees at which point I realised my toes had gone numb and were beginning to hurt (this is after 5 seconds) so made a hasty retreat out of there!!
Day 4 was an easy down hill back out to the valley and stroll into Villa Cerro Castillo with the mountains and glaciers fading out of sight.
Got to Villa Cerro Castillo around 2 so decided to try and hitch on as its literally got nothing there. Did see a few gauchos stroll into town on their horses with best ironed shirts on. Pretty cool to see. Just as we had given up, packs back on and started to walk into town to look for a place to stay, 2 Israeli guys in a 4WD picked us up. We were delighted to get the lift but on hindsight it was bad luck as these guys drove like lunatics. The scenery for the next 90 mins was incredible but we had WAY too many close misses, ignorant, careless, stupid, 23 yr old selfish driving moments to be able to appreciate it properly. Nice guys but jaysus respect for others please. Maybe I was that stupid too 10 years ago. Got to Rio Tranquilo which a lovely little village situated at the side of Lago General Carrera. Found a nice hosteria to stay in, showered and ordered dinner. In the meantime the 2 Israelis had been kicked out for what the hotel owners said was rude behaviour and for the 2 boys said was asking to use the kitchen. I dunno what really happened but was too tired and hungry to care. Dinner was a massive lump of delicious beef and rice and a cold beer ... ahhh a great way to finish off 4 brilliant days.
Next day we hitched out of town (avoiuding the boys as I´d prefer to walk 100kms and be alive then dead or brown pants) in 2 stages as far as Puerto Guadal. First with a lovely local couple who dropped us at the Leones Valley (which looked stunning and we were going to walk there eventually but decided we couldn´t find transport there -- hahaha ironic), then a few hours later with a truck driver. Poor Dunk was in the back for that rough road - ouch - whilst I sat up front amusing the truck driver with terrrible spanish and drinking free coke! After 3 hours on hardly any traffic resigned ourselves to spending the njght in Puerto Guadal. Found a great little cabana which we had all to ourselves with the best shower ever, kitchen etc. Much better then camping as we had originally planned but gave up as couldnt find the campsite.
Next morning got a ride with a local fella and his 3 boys in their ute - he said he was going to Mallin Grande (about 35kms nearer to Chile Chico) so we said sure its a bit closer so why not. Anyways he dropped us 8kms short so we had to hike it into town as there was NO traffic on the road. Did find a shop for lunch there tho (phew) otherwise it would have been biscuits and rice (delicious NOT). After another 4 hours and about 4 cars we were getting pretty depressed about having to find a place to camp when a bus from Chalten travel turned up. I could have kissed the guy. Dunk did ask how much but to be honest he could have charged me anything at that point!!
And so we arrived into Chile Chico at 7.30pm last night. The drive here has been stunning, hardly anyone does it but its just out of this world beautiful with stunning views over the lake (2nd largest in South America and kicks the ass off Lake Titicaca), out to the snow and ice capped mountains to the west and getting drier as we headed east. Not much in Chile Chico but staying at a cheap, very welcoming hostel, have managed to wash our minging clothes, shop for the next week and all sorted for the next adventure.
Speaking of which the plan is to head to Lago Jeinemini (if we can get a lift the 60kms to there), spend 2-3 days camped there and do day walks, then hike 3 days over a valley and pass to the south side into Valle Chacabuco and then road bash for 2 days into Cochrane. Not sure if the plan will go exactly like that as we may not be able to get there to start the plan in the first place!! Here´s hoping and chat to ye from Cochrane next week!!
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