Spent a couple of hours on sunday night squeezing everything (8 days food, all our stuff including about 8 books, Spanish notes, tent, sleeping bags, etc) into our packs - part of me thinks this was more tiring then some of the hikes to follow.
On monday morning, woke our landalady at the ridicously unsociable hour of 8am so we could get organised that day and get hiking asap as didn´t have anything to do in Chile Chico. Walked into town at 9am to try and find Ferdinando Giorgia at Expeditions Patagonia. Waited around for his office to open at 10 (nothing happens in Chile before 10) and managed to buy white spirits for the stove so didn´t have to resort to petrol (wahoo as petrol stinks for cooking). When his office did open and we managed to explain to the girl working there she gave us the card for her boss (whose office we are sitting in) with his mobile number and told us to ring him. Baffled as to why she couldn´t seeing as we´re in his office, off we trudged and Dunk managed to get the message across on the phone (its amazing how much we rely on gesticulation to get our pigeon spanish messages across). Met the guy in the office an hour later and he showed us some good shots and google earth images of where we were headed. For the princely sum of 70k pesos (US$140) he drove us out in his very antique land rover (alternative was to hitch - I think we would still be waiting).
We left at 2pm slightly later then we wanted but sure the days are very long here so no worries. The drive out was quite scenic, very dry patagonian steppe as we followed the argy-chile border (literally driving on the border where there is no controls or anything but dust really). Ferdinando dropped us to the campsite right at the western end of Lago Jeinimeni which was great as it was a damn hot day and our packs were massive so 10km 4wd track bash saved was very nice surprise. The lake itself is quite pretty and once we got over the initial shock of being bombarded by bucket loads of mossies and horse flies we found a sweet campsite next to a stream at the top of the lake. There was enough wind to keep away the hordes of biting insects and only had to carry our packs abput 1km which was enough as Dunk´s was about 26+kgs and mine not far off that.
On tuesday, we hiked up the Estero La Gloria river valley, over the White Horse Pass (Paso Caballo Blanco), past Lago Verde (good trail over the pass past the lake) which is a stunning green colour and reflections of snow capped mountains make it extra special, continued up the huge, wide flat valley and then up the Ventisquero Valley to the top to Lago La Gloria which is a kind of pale green colour, fed by a glacier and had the huge Cerro La Gloria over head. Very pretty. From there returned the way we had come - about 26kms all up so a pretty full on day mostly in the sun as well so tiring as it was very hot again.
On wednesday took it easier as were tired from the previous day. Climbed about a third of the way up La Gloria ridge for lovely views over both Lago Jeinimeni and Verde. Lunched next to the Lago Verde in the shade of a tree and hardly any biting insects. After that bashed upto some cascades which were lovely altho ended up with heaps of scratches as forgot our gaitors. In hindsight, we should have based ourselves at Lago Verde as the horse flies and mossies seemed less ferocious there.
On Thursday, it was down with the tent and on with the big packs to start the first day over Paso Leones. Another hot day beckoned so we set off before 9am only to be greeted by HORDES of mossies and horseflies for the first 2 hours. It was crap to be honest and the track crisscrossed the river heaps so slow going which meant the horseflies had loads of time to land. The first 5-6kms was heavy going with the packs as we climbed over lots of scree and slopes of dead trees from avalanches and rock falls. By much we were pretty tired (which is always depressing) but the valley started to open, lunch was good, the insects went on siesta and about 20 minutes later the scenery dramatically improved. Lots of dramatic mountains, forested sides, little lakes and grassy valleys made the easier going altho it was probably heading for 30C again. We camped just north of El Coironal Lake with great views all around.
Next day was downhill most of way. The first 6kms was easy as there was a great horse and cattle track to follow (ironic that when we left the national park track conditions were much easier and prettier) then the whole valley opened up into very dry grass lands (some of which probably had been cleared years ago by fires which damaged so much of Chilean Patagonia). We skirted high and found the occasional patch of trees to get some respite from the heat. By the time we got down into the Valle Chacabuco we were well covered in dust and sweat (such a lovely combination). Stood by the river pondering how to get on the road on the other side where we saw a 4WD slow to stare at us and thought "a bugga there goes our only chance of a lift". The next 30kms was a road bash along a very infrequently travelled road so we expected to have to walk it. Crossed the river at a wide spot and it was ok altho a strong current. Trudged on for about 6kms when just as we were about to stop at a shady tree to decide what to do, we nearly got trundled over by a truck. We were walking into a very strong head wind and couldn´t hear it. I think all our luck was with us that day as the guys were heading to Estancia Valle Chacabuco which was our dream ... wahooo no more road bashing. The drive in was lovely (especially cos we were knackered) altho the poor driver had my very smelly armpit hovering near his face as I tried not to fall onto him - he was very polite and never complained. The vally is all transitional steppe and full of guanacos which are slightly smaller then llamas and mostly light brown colours. They allowed us to camp for free at the estancia. Turns out that Douglas Tompkins (same guy who set up Park Pumalin) has bought the estancia out to link the 2 reserves so it will become one of the largest national parks in Chile and pretty important as the only area of transitional steppe that is protected. One of the guys from the truck was lovely and showed us the house and work they are doing there. Its going to very special place in a couple of years. Its amazing too cos never rains but only snows and all of it in winter yet theres plenty fresh water from the mountain snows.
Next day headed to Tamango Reserve. Met some of the volunteers who told us the previos 4 days were exceptionally hot for the area (as everyone in Cochrane keeps telling us too). Great hiking conditions not. Anyways set off and eventually reached the saddle between Cerro Tamango and Tamaguito (after some brief confusion about where the hell we were) in time for lunch. Incredible views and many bemused guanacos wheenying (that thing horses do but guanacos do it like they are either being squeezed very tightly or smoked too much pot) watching us sit on their territory. One was even perched on top of Cerro Tamanguito checking us out.
Climbed up Tamanquito after lunch for incredible views in all directions. Could see the northern ice cap, Reserve Tamango and all its lakes, Valle Chacabuco and all the mountains and ranges north of there, San Lorenzo massif (very spectacular high 3700m mountain on argy-chile border). Bashed our way down to Lago Elefantita after that which was really good going as the forest is quite open underneath and very pretty with nice green, floor and beeches. Collapsed in a tired heap at Lago Elefantita and camped with views of San Lorenzo and the lake. Very cool campsite and not so many insects either.
Next day did a morning stroll up to see Lago Tamango (about 4kms return) without packs, then walked around Lago Elefantita to the eastern side following a track which turned out was leading was down to Lago Cochrane so bashed our way back upto the top of the ridge overlooking Lago Elefantita (southern side). Slow enough going as was hot and loads of hidden knolls and knobs to drag those stupid packs over. By lunch completed the circuit of Lago Elefantita but decided not to do the range over Lago Tamango but to find the track we had already done that morning (scaring the crap out of the same ducks and geese again). We actually met another hiker later that afternoon .... wow think they are rarer then the huemel (rare patagonian deer). The track was like a freeway (altho very dusty) after Lago Tamango and people obviously use this part a bit more often. Also its a very steep descent into Cochrane but pretty cool views all the way.
A killer on the knees which brings me to the point that we know each own a walking pole. Shudder ya we joined the europeans whic our little ski pole and have to say its great for uphill, downhill, saves the knees, good for crossing rivers, testing mud depth and keeping husband in control ;) even if it does concede that we`re not so young anymore.
Staying in the Res Sur Austral where they gave us a welcome like we were rich fat tourists rather then being the exhausted, dusty, sweaty, bedraggled pair we really were. Only problem we had was that the water in Cochrane stopped for the whole town last night. I got lucky and managed to shower (another cold shower - noone seems to have the hot shower thing figured out down here but god I felt-smelt so much better after) but poor Dunk had to wait a couple of hours. Had a huge great dinner at the place and she feed us so well.
Chilled out in the heat again today. All in all a brilliant week. In hindsight we should have left stuff in Cochrane then went to Chile Chico and done the loop with lighter packs. Bringing mossie repellant would have been genius. Other then that everything was really fantastic and we had such a cool week. The areas we walked in are remote but easy and safe enough to navigate and walk thru yet noone seems to go there. The insects are a nuisance (I look like someone who had a fight with a pin cushion) but the scenery is just indescribably outstanding.
Off to Caleta Tortel next and then Villa O Higgins.
Monday, January 28, 2008
Sunday, January 20, 2008
Around Cerro Castillo and onto Chile Chico
We set off as planned on monday morning at 9.30am on the bus heading south to Cochrane giving instructions to the bus driver to let us off about 30kms before Villa Cerro Castillo so we could start our 4 day hike in the Reserve Nacional Cerro Castillo. Bit of a cloudy day but clear enough to give good vistas of the rolling hills and mountains on the horizon. Stopped after about 2 hours driving (at 30kms per hour) in a tiny little place where we were told the bus was broken down so we had to wait for a replacement. Groan - we only had gone 60kms at the very most so sat on the side of a very windy road waiting for about 90 mins. Eventually the replacement arrived and set off at a rapid (40kms) speed so we got dropped at our stop about 30 mins later around 1.30pm slightly frustrated at the delay but hey its a lovely day and its bright til after 10 so all is good.
Day 1 of the walk was up a rough ish 4wd track along a lovely valley which opened up at the end to a stunning view of Cerro Castillo and the glaciers and snow hanging off it. Was a tough enough day as we had pretty massive packs - all our stuff, including books, food for 5 days etc as we didn´t want to waste time leaving gear stored anywhere. Eventually settled in a great little campsite and managed to set up before the rain hit us. Was damn cold that night but being pretty knackered we slept well!
Next day was stunning, clear skies all the way once some fog cleared off the heights. Hiked up to Glacier Penon (about 2 hours sidetrip) which was pretty amazing altho has clearly receded quite a bit from its original size. Had condors (or maybe king vultures) soaring the thermals above us and stunning views. Walked up and over a cold pass at about 1400m, about 500m of snow to slide over on the top of the pass along with some steep scree (Grace not happy with this) which we negotiated carefully. HAd lunch sitting under (well a bit away from) another glacier at the head of a beautiful valley with glaciers everywhere, stunning views of the bald, basalt, mountains and tree lined valley. After a few hours hiking down over some more boulders and scree, back into the trees, over a few rivers and then back up another valley where we pitched our tent in little hollow over which the Castillo Chico towered with another hanging glacier and beautiful cascade. Climbed the moraine at the side for a wonderful 360 view, then slide back down for a another sound sleep.
Day 3 was once again clear blue skies all the way. First we climed up above the valley we camped, over the beautiful turqoise lake (cant remember the name) with another overhanging glacier (yip their not extinct in Chile yet!) onto yet another pass (1600m) which was freezing on top once again with more snow. The other side was steep scree which descending was a bit like a snow plough all the way to the bottom (probably for about 45 mins, ouch burning legs with massive pack). After that there was 1.5km of the crappiest track along the river (just badly placed, rough, easy to get hurt and generally stupid place to put a track) then 3.5kms back up another valley thru beautiful lenga forest to the New Zealanders camp. Glorious place with a beautiful open grassy area at the head of the valley. Altho pretty tired did 2 hours scramble upto Laguna Duff which is surrounded by steep moraine, mountain sides and just a stunning turqoise blue colour with ice floes at one end. We did briefly contemplate a swim and got as far as stripping off, into the water as far as knees at which point I realised my toes had gone numb and were beginning to hurt (this is after 5 seconds) so made a hasty retreat out of there!!
Day 4 was an easy down hill back out to the valley and stroll into Villa Cerro Castillo with the mountains and glaciers fading out of sight.
Got to Villa Cerro Castillo around 2 so decided to try and hitch on as its literally got nothing there. Did see a few gauchos stroll into town on their horses with best ironed shirts on. Pretty cool to see. Just as we had given up, packs back on and started to walk into town to look for a place to stay, 2 Israeli guys in a 4WD picked us up. We were delighted to get the lift but on hindsight it was bad luck as these guys drove like lunatics. The scenery for the next 90 mins was incredible but we had WAY too many close misses, ignorant, careless, stupid, 23 yr old selfish driving moments to be able to appreciate it properly. Nice guys but jaysus respect for others please. Maybe I was that stupid too 10 years ago. Got to Rio Tranquilo which a lovely little village situated at the side of Lago General Carrera. Found a nice hosteria to stay in, showered and ordered dinner. In the meantime the 2 Israelis had been kicked out for what the hotel owners said was rude behaviour and for the 2 boys said was asking to use the kitchen. I dunno what really happened but was too tired and hungry to care. Dinner was a massive lump of delicious beef and rice and a cold beer ... ahhh a great way to finish off 4 brilliant days.
Next day we hitched out of town (avoiuding the boys as I´d prefer to walk 100kms and be alive then dead or brown pants) in 2 stages as far as Puerto Guadal. First with a lovely local couple who dropped us at the Leones Valley (which looked stunning and we were going to walk there eventually but decided we couldn´t find transport there -- hahaha ironic), then a few hours later with a truck driver. Poor Dunk was in the back for that rough road - ouch - whilst I sat up front amusing the truck driver with terrrible spanish and drinking free coke! After 3 hours on hardly any traffic resigned ourselves to spending the njght in Puerto Guadal. Found a great little cabana which we had all to ourselves with the best shower ever, kitchen etc. Much better then camping as we had originally planned but gave up as couldnt find the campsite.
Next morning got a ride with a local fella and his 3 boys in their ute - he said he was going to Mallin Grande (about 35kms nearer to Chile Chico) so we said sure its a bit closer so why not. Anyways he dropped us 8kms short so we had to hike it into town as there was NO traffic on the road. Did find a shop for lunch there tho (phew) otherwise it would have been biscuits and rice (delicious NOT). After another 4 hours and about 4 cars we were getting pretty depressed about having to find a place to camp when a bus from Chalten travel turned up. I could have kissed the guy. Dunk did ask how much but to be honest he could have charged me anything at that point!!
And so we arrived into Chile Chico at 7.30pm last night. The drive here has been stunning, hardly anyone does it but its just out of this world beautiful with stunning views over the lake (2nd largest in South America and kicks the ass off Lake Titicaca), out to the snow and ice capped mountains to the west and getting drier as we headed east. Not much in Chile Chico but staying at a cheap, very welcoming hostel, have managed to wash our minging clothes, shop for the next week and all sorted for the next adventure.
Speaking of which the plan is to head to Lago Jeinemini (if we can get a lift the 60kms to there), spend 2-3 days camped there and do day walks, then hike 3 days over a valley and pass to the south side into Valle Chacabuco and then road bash for 2 days into Cochrane. Not sure if the plan will go exactly like that as we may not be able to get there to start the plan in the first place!! Here´s hoping and chat to ye from Cochrane next week!!
Day 1 of the walk was up a rough ish 4wd track along a lovely valley which opened up at the end to a stunning view of Cerro Castillo and the glaciers and snow hanging off it. Was a tough enough day as we had pretty massive packs - all our stuff, including books, food for 5 days etc as we didn´t want to waste time leaving gear stored anywhere. Eventually settled in a great little campsite and managed to set up before the rain hit us. Was damn cold that night but being pretty knackered we slept well!
Next day was stunning, clear skies all the way once some fog cleared off the heights. Hiked up to Glacier Penon (about 2 hours sidetrip) which was pretty amazing altho has clearly receded quite a bit from its original size. Had condors (or maybe king vultures) soaring the thermals above us and stunning views. Walked up and over a cold pass at about 1400m, about 500m of snow to slide over on the top of the pass along with some steep scree (Grace not happy with this) which we negotiated carefully. HAd lunch sitting under (well a bit away from) another glacier at the head of a beautiful valley with glaciers everywhere, stunning views of the bald, basalt, mountains and tree lined valley. After a few hours hiking down over some more boulders and scree, back into the trees, over a few rivers and then back up another valley where we pitched our tent in little hollow over which the Castillo Chico towered with another hanging glacier and beautiful cascade. Climbed the moraine at the side for a wonderful 360 view, then slide back down for a another sound sleep.
Day 3 was once again clear blue skies all the way. First we climed up above the valley we camped, over the beautiful turqoise lake (cant remember the name) with another overhanging glacier (yip their not extinct in Chile yet!) onto yet another pass (1600m) which was freezing on top once again with more snow. The other side was steep scree which descending was a bit like a snow plough all the way to the bottom (probably for about 45 mins, ouch burning legs with massive pack). After that there was 1.5km of the crappiest track along the river (just badly placed, rough, easy to get hurt and generally stupid place to put a track) then 3.5kms back up another valley thru beautiful lenga forest to the New Zealanders camp. Glorious place with a beautiful open grassy area at the head of the valley. Altho pretty tired did 2 hours scramble upto Laguna Duff which is surrounded by steep moraine, mountain sides and just a stunning turqoise blue colour with ice floes at one end. We did briefly contemplate a swim and got as far as stripping off, into the water as far as knees at which point I realised my toes had gone numb and were beginning to hurt (this is after 5 seconds) so made a hasty retreat out of there!!
Day 4 was an easy down hill back out to the valley and stroll into Villa Cerro Castillo with the mountains and glaciers fading out of sight.
Got to Villa Cerro Castillo around 2 so decided to try and hitch on as its literally got nothing there. Did see a few gauchos stroll into town on their horses with best ironed shirts on. Pretty cool to see. Just as we had given up, packs back on and started to walk into town to look for a place to stay, 2 Israeli guys in a 4WD picked us up. We were delighted to get the lift but on hindsight it was bad luck as these guys drove like lunatics. The scenery for the next 90 mins was incredible but we had WAY too many close misses, ignorant, careless, stupid, 23 yr old selfish driving moments to be able to appreciate it properly. Nice guys but jaysus respect for others please. Maybe I was that stupid too 10 years ago. Got to Rio Tranquilo which a lovely little village situated at the side of Lago General Carrera. Found a nice hosteria to stay in, showered and ordered dinner. In the meantime the 2 Israelis had been kicked out for what the hotel owners said was rude behaviour and for the 2 boys said was asking to use the kitchen. I dunno what really happened but was too tired and hungry to care. Dinner was a massive lump of delicious beef and rice and a cold beer ... ahhh a great way to finish off 4 brilliant days.
Next day we hitched out of town (avoiuding the boys as I´d prefer to walk 100kms and be alive then dead or brown pants) in 2 stages as far as Puerto Guadal. First with a lovely local couple who dropped us at the Leones Valley (which looked stunning and we were going to walk there eventually but decided we couldn´t find transport there -- hahaha ironic), then a few hours later with a truck driver. Poor Dunk was in the back for that rough road - ouch - whilst I sat up front amusing the truck driver with terrrible spanish and drinking free coke! After 3 hours on hardly any traffic resigned ourselves to spending the njght in Puerto Guadal. Found a great little cabana which we had all to ourselves with the best shower ever, kitchen etc. Much better then camping as we had originally planned but gave up as couldnt find the campsite.
Next morning got a ride with a local fella and his 3 boys in their ute - he said he was going to Mallin Grande (about 35kms nearer to Chile Chico) so we said sure its a bit closer so why not. Anyways he dropped us 8kms short so we had to hike it into town as there was NO traffic on the road. Did find a shop for lunch there tho (phew) otherwise it would have been biscuits and rice (delicious NOT). After another 4 hours and about 4 cars we were getting pretty depressed about having to find a place to camp when a bus from Chalten travel turned up. I could have kissed the guy. Dunk did ask how much but to be honest he could have charged me anything at that point!!
And so we arrived into Chile Chico at 7.30pm last night. The drive here has been stunning, hardly anyone does it but its just out of this world beautiful with stunning views over the lake (2nd largest in South America and kicks the ass off Lake Titicaca), out to the snow and ice capped mountains to the west and getting drier as we headed east. Not much in Chile Chico but staying at a cheap, very welcoming hostel, have managed to wash our minging clothes, shop for the next week and all sorted for the next adventure.
Speaking of which the plan is to head to Lago Jeinemini (if we can get a lift the 60kms to there), spend 2-3 days camped there and do day walks, then hike 3 days over a valley and pass to the south side into Valle Chacabuco and then road bash for 2 days into Cochrane. Not sure if the plan will go exactly like that as we may not be able to get there to start the plan in the first place!! Here´s hoping and chat to ye from Cochrane next week!!
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Carretas Austral - Coyhaique to Caleta Gonzalo and back
We managed to get organised really quickly in Coyhaique. Rented a car which we got at 6pm on the friday evening less then 24 hours since we had arrived in Coyhaique. So much for things taking time on the Carretas Austral. We got lucky and got a free upgrade as well from a small 3 door little thing to a larger 4 door with boot car as the car we were supposed to have hadn´t been returned. This was great really as we managed to explode the contents of our backpacks to fill the car and most of the time the car doubled as transport cum moving laundrette as we tried to keep our gear modestly dry.
Headed off north towards Villa Amengual via the very scenic drive past Rios Simpson Reserve. Both pretty nervous as we have´nt driven on the RHS very much and it was a brand new car. The road was sealed for about 100km and then we hit the gravel. It was awful ... big river rocks and scree greeted us once we left the sealed road. After about 20kms of the bottom of the car getting the crap kicked out of it, we pulled over and camped for the night in a scenic little spot between the hills past Villa Amengual.
Next morning we headed off into the clouds and dull cold weather pretty nervous about whether we should be driving this car on this road at all but checked all the paper work etc and didn´t see anything saying we couldnt (as if we have enough Spanish to figure this out). Anyways about 2kms into the drive the road improved dramatically and the gravel was much smaller less damaging grade so we relaxed a bit. Found a fab camp spot at Lagos Todos Santos where we should have stayed altho it was very exposed as we stopped for a 10 minute picnic on the way back and nearly got blown away. Headed straight thru Quelat NP as the clouds were down on us and we figured we´d do it on the way back. Eventually got to La Junta around 2pm and the weather changed dramatically and out came the sun. Up to this point we only had tantalising glimpses of the beauty behind the clouds but now all the glaciers, snow capped mountains, green and torquise rivers and lakes, beautiful Valdivian forest was apparent. We drove all day (for the 150th time questioning why and how we could have forgotten to bring tunes with us on the entire trip, probably our biggest mistake of the trip) and got to the south end of Park Pumalin. We camped at the Ventisquero camping area just south of Chaiten. Its an absolutely stunning setting with 5 camping areas to choose from in the 5kms plus length of valley. We choose the first camping area as you could see the massive glacier in one direction, and incredible snow capped mountains in the other direction. There was one other couple (cyclists) camped at the farthest camp area and other then that we had it all to ourselves. Unreal.
On the sunday, the morning was lovely and we walked out to a crater walk which climbed steeply to the top of the crater and wound down to the inside of this very extinct crater thru lovely forest. At the bottom there was a little pond with loads of nosy hummingbirds flying up to check us out. Really cool. After that we continued on and walked out to the massive valley with the glacier at the end. The guys from the previous day told us the river was very dangerous to cross but think they crossed in the wrong place as we made it across easily. Unfortunately the weather changed and it started to rain so we didn´t risk getting caught on the wrong side of the glacial river with no proper gear or food with us (sensible us eh). Drove north to Chaiten (a very basic, small, dreary port town) , stocked up on basic provisions and continued north. Stopped briefly at Santa Barbara beach which is all black lava sand, very beautiful, a good spot for wild camping andwe also saw some seals and dolphins again. Decided to head on as it was pretty exposed to the weather from the sea. Camped at El Volcan where we based ourselves for the next 3 nights. Another fab campsite with glacier and snow capped mountains views (which we briefly saw each day between the torrential rain).
We camped at the communal camp site which we shared with one other bloke and had the shelter to ourselves as he seemed to be happy out by hinself in his tiny tent. We also had cold showers every evening and I mean COLD - bloody artic temps but better then stinking our sleeping bags this early in the trip. Its more of a splash and dash for each body part except when I nearly got hypothermia rinsing my hair (long hair sucks for camping).
On monday, the weather was awful - cold, torrential rain, gales. We pitied the cyclists we saw out there. The forecast was awful for the week so we just headed out and did some short day walks that day. Spectacular walk at Cascadas Escondidas which winds up thru amazing forest of beech, alerce (really old trees ie 1000 years plus which have nearly been logged out - ah humans are so forward thinking), lenga etc plus mosses and lichens frowing on every tree, rock and ground surface available. The waterfalls were pretty impressive too. Did the alerce trail too but at that stage we were soaked right thru, bloody freezing so gave up and went for coffee. There´s a cafe at Caleta Gonzalo which is the end of the road and will be for a long time to come as the mountains just rise straight out of the fjord and go straight up so pretty difficult to get around that. For some reason they didn´t like wet (altho we had changed clothes by then), bedraggled walkers orcyclists in the cafe. Even tho we paid and drank the most expensive nescafe (Chileans dont do real coffee) and ate overly sweet chocolate cake (everything here has way too much sugar or dulce de leche (which is a sweet carmelly thing like super condensed milk but sweeter cos they probably add sugar)), we left after 30 minutes. There was 3 other cyclists there (amongst the drier, richer folks who obviously weren´t camping but staying in expensive cabins or lodges) who were doing an epic bike trip around south america and they managed to dry their clothes on the fire by sharing one coffee and cake between them and avoiding all subtle hints by the staff to leave. Very funny to watch.
On Tuesday, we decided to give the Senderos El Volcan (24km out and back to a glacier) a lash even tho the weather was once again awful. It was a stunning walk thru incredible forest covered in moss, ferns, huge trees, hummingbirds, owls, little wrens and other birds we dont know and climbing gently up over 12kms where you suddenly get to the end of the forest and onto glacier moraine. At that point we were drenched from walking thru ferns and wet drippy forest but the clouds rose high enough for 20 mins to allow us to see the glacier. So unreal and close (and it was so cold too) and what a great view for a quick lunch. Took us about 7 hours all up, probably quicker as it was so cold so the recommended 10-12 hours is a bit exagerated we think.
On Wednesday, headed back south in the lashing rain again to Park Quelat where we camped in a lovely little place with views of the famous Ventisquero Colgante (which means hanging glacier) surrounded by steep mountains. That night was very cold and it snowed on the mountain tops (not that far above us). The next day we walked up to the viewing point of the glacier above the valley which is truly spectacular. The glacier just hangs over a massive cliff in the mountains with a couple of waterfalls emptying out of it. Will post photos as words fail me here. Also tried to do another walk but Conaf (the Chilean national parks admin guys) hadn´t bothered to clear the trail for a long time so couldn´t get past the bamboo.
On friday, packed up early to head south and back to Coyhaique. Stopped at another walk (which was closed for maintenance but we jumped the sign as noone around). The walk headed up throu a narrow forested valley and then out on an open area which terminated in a glacial lake surrounded on 3 sides by steep rocky walls which were topped by snow and glaciers (which we briefly glimpsed thru the rain and clouds). Truly spectacular sight. The lake was filled with huge ice chunks from the glacier and also frozen over as temps were probably just above 0C so must have frozen the night before.
From there headed back to Coyhaique, where we (eventually) decided to stay in a really nice place called Hotel Austral (about 35 eur per night) which has continous hot water, ensuite, brekkie, loads of space for drying damp (wet) boots, clothes, sleeping bags and tent. Very welcoming place after a week in the cold and wet. In summary, Park Pumalin, to a lesser degree Quelat NP and the 420km drive each way is amazing despite the normally wet, cold weather and tough road conditions. Its peak tourist season here but yet it felt as if we had the place to ourselves. An incredible week of scenery, beautiful campsites and day walks. Highly recommended.
Headed off north towards Villa Amengual via the very scenic drive past Rios Simpson Reserve. Both pretty nervous as we have´nt driven on the RHS very much and it was a brand new car. The road was sealed for about 100km and then we hit the gravel. It was awful ... big river rocks and scree greeted us once we left the sealed road. After about 20kms of the bottom of the car getting the crap kicked out of it, we pulled over and camped for the night in a scenic little spot between the hills past Villa Amengual.
Next morning we headed off into the clouds and dull cold weather pretty nervous about whether we should be driving this car on this road at all but checked all the paper work etc and didn´t see anything saying we couldnt (as if we have enough Spanish to figure this out). Anyways about 2kms into the drive the road improved dramatically and the gravel was much smaller less damaging grade so we relaxed a bit. Found a fab camp spot at Lagos Todos Santos where we should have stayed altho it was very exposed as we stopped for a 10 minute picnic on the way back and nearly got blown away. Headed straight thru Quelat NP as the clouds were down on us and we figured we´d do it on the way back. Eventually got to La Junta around 2pm and the weather changed dramatically and out came the sun. Up to this point we only had tantalising glimpses of the beauty behind the clouds but now all the glaciers, snow capped mountains, green and torquise rivers and lakes, beautiful Valdivian forest was apparent. We drove all day (for the 150th time questioning why and how we could have forgotten to bring tunes with us on the entire trip, probably our biggest mistake of the trip) and got to the south end of Park Pumalin. We camped at the Ventisquero camping area just south of Chaiten. Its an absolutely stunning setting with 5 camping areas to choose from in the 5kms plus length of valley. We choose the first camping area as you could see the massive glacier in one direction, and incredible snow capped mountains in the other direction. There was one other couple (cyclists) camped at the farthest camp area and other then that we had it all to ourselves. Unreal.
On the sunday, the morning was lovely and we walked out to a crater walk which climbed steeply to the top of the crater and wound down to the inside of this very extinct crater thru lovely forest. At the bottom there was a little pond with loads of nosy hummingbirds flying up to check us out. Really cool. After that we continued on and walked out to the massive valley with the glacier at the end. The guys from the previous day told us the river was very dangerous to cross but think they crossed in the wrong place as we made it across easily. Unfortunately the weather changed and it started to rain so we didn´t risk getting caught on the wrong side of the glacial river with no proper gear or food with us (sensible us eh). Drove north to Chaiten (a very basic, small, dreary port town) , stocked up on basic provisions and continued north. Stopped briefly at Santa Barbara beach which is all black lava sand, very beautiful, a good spot for wild camping andwe also saw some seals and dolphins again. Decided to head on as it was pretty exposed to the weather from the sea. Camped at El Volcan where we based ourselves for the next 3 nights. Another fab campsite with glacier and snow capped mountains views (which we briefly saw each day between the torrential rain).
We camped at the communal camp site which we shared with one other bloke and had the shelter to ourselves as he seemed to be happy out by hinself in his tiny tent. We also had cold showers every evening and I mean COLD - bloody artic temps but better then stinking our sleeping bags this early in the trip. Its more of a splash and dash for each body part except when I nearly got hypothermia rinsing my hair (long hair sucks for camping).
On monday, the weather was awful - cold, torrential rain, gales. We pitied the cyclists we saw out there. The forecast was awful for the week so we just headed out and did some short day walks that day. Spectacular walk at Cascadas Escondidas which winds up thru amazing forest of beech, alerce (really old trees ie 1000 years plus which have nearly been logged out - ah humans are so forward thinking), lenga etc plus mosses and lichens frowing on every tree, rock and ground surface available. The waterfalls were pretty impressive too. Did the alerce trail too but at that stage we were soaked right thru, bloody freezing so gave up and went for coffee. There´s a cafe at Caleta Gonzalo which is the end of the road and will be for a long time to come as the mountains just rise straight out of the fjord and go straight up so pretty difficult to get around that. For some reason they didn´t like wet (altho we had changed clothes by then), bedraggled walkers orcyclists in the cafe. Even tho we paid and drank the most expensive nescafe (Chileans dont do real coffee) and ate overly sweet chocolate cake (everything here has way too much sugar or dulce de leche (which is a sweet carmelly thing like super condensed milk but sweeter cos they probably add sugar)), we left after 30 minutes. There was 3 other cyclists there (amongst the drier, richer folks who obviously weren´t camping but staying in expensive cabins or lodges) who were doing an epic bike trip around south america and they managed to dry their clothes on the fire by sharing one coffee and cake between them and avoiding all subtle hints by the staff to leave. Very funny to watch.
On Tuesday, we decided to give the Senderos El Volcan (24km out and back to a glacier) a lash even tho the weather was once again awful. It was a stunning walk thru incredible forest covered in moss, ferns, huge trees, hummingbirds, owls, little wrens and other birds we dont know and climbing gently up over 12kms where you suddenly get to the end of the forest and onto glacier moraine. At that point we were drenched from walking thru ferns and wet drippy forest but the clouds rose high enough for 20 mins to allow us to see the glacier. So unreal and close (and it was so cold too) and what a great view for a quick lunch. Took us about 7 hours all up, probably quicker as it was so cold so the recommended 10-12 hours is a bit exagerated we think.
On Wednesday, headed back south in the lashing rain again to Park Quelat where we camped in a lovely little place with views of the famous Ventisquero Colgante (which means hanging glacier) surrounded by steep mountains. That night was very cold and it snowed on the mountain tops (not that far above us). The next day we walked up to the viewing point of the glacier above the valley which is truly spectacular. The glacier just hangs over a massive cliff in the mountains with a couple of waterfalls emptying out of it. Will post photos as words fail me here. Also tried to do another walk but Conaf (the Chilean national parks admin guys) hadn´t bothered to clear the trail for a long time so couldn´t get past the bamboo.
On friday, packed up early to head south and back to Coyhaique. Stopped at another walk (which was closed for maintenance but we jumped the sign as noone around). The walk headed up throu a narrow forested valley and then out on an open area which terminated in a glacial lake surrounded on 3 sides by steep rocky walls which were topped by snow and glaciers (which we briefly glimpsed thru the rain and clouds). Truly spectacular sight. The lake was filled with huge ice chunks from the glacier and also frozen over as temps were probably just above 0C so must have frozen the night before.
From there headed back to Coyhaique, where we (eventually) decided to stay in a really nice place called Hotel Austral (about 35 eur per night) which has continous hot water, ensuite, brekkie, loads of space for drying damp (wet) boots, clothes, sleeping bags and tent. Very welcoming place after a week in the cold and wet. In summary, Park Pumalin, to a lesser degree Quelat NP and the 420km drive each way is amazing despite the normally wet, cold weather and tough road conditions. Its peak tourist season here but yet it felt as if we had the place to ourselves. An incredible week of scenery, beautiful campsites and day walks. Highly recommended.
Friday, January 4, 2008
Puerto Montt to Coyhaiqhue
Well we are now in the middle of the Carretas Austral (which means Southern Route) in Chile. Its absolutely gorgeous here altho pretty chilly (hahahaha!) temps hovering around 10C with a cutting cold wind but its sunny.
The ferry trip was incredible. Flat as a pancake all the way, our 4 bed bunk room was lovely, we had a private toilet, 1 other fella sharing with us, loads of room, comfy beds, towels, showers, fresh linen and best of all the rooms are all above deck so happy days (memories of a trip to Estonia from Stockholm are still fresh!). We were so lucky with the weather, no winds so we made it in 4 hours before schedule which allowed us to get to Coyhaique last night. We saw a pod of dolphins (dunno what kind but they were bigger then any dolphins we have seen before), 2 whales (dunno what kind), seals, penguins (wow they literally fly thru the water so fast!), amazing scenery on the way on the ferry so pretty happy with that. The dolphins were incredible and swam under the bow of the ship for awhile.
Got into Puerto Chacubaco at 7pm last night and managed to get the 2 required buses to Coyhaique. The drive (about 80kms) was unbeleivably pretty and scenic. High, snow capped rocky mountains, lush forest to the tree line, lovely grassy valley with tasty looking cows (all that good beef in Argentina has me beef obsessed too).
Arrived into Coyhaique and eventually found the hostel (Hostel Baquranda) we had booked (since we are so organised and its high season). There was no sign so we slightly worried about it being the right place. The guy showed us the room but said there was a problem cause the Chileans like to party over New Year so we thought ok maybe the place is a little thrashed. Turned out he had kept us a room next to a room that was being built but wasn´t completed yet as the builders were too hungover. That was fine - what wasn´t so fine was the ´bed´ situation. He wanted 17 euros for a single bed that looked like it was going to fall apart and single air mattress on the floor for one of us ... hardly bloody matrimonial. SO we told him nicely no way. He got a bit huffed about that - seriously - and said we´d never find another place now. At that stage I would have preferred the park bench then pay the cheeky bugger anything. Anyways its bright here til nearly 10.30pm so we walked around and found another great (Hostal Licrayen 20k pesos) place with the best brekkie and lovely woman running the show.
In the midst of car hiring now so better go and do that (or help Dunk do something more productive then me blogging!).
PS went for sunny afternoon beers in Puerto Varas with Andy and Mary before the ferry trip which was great fun
PPS the ferry is the Navimag one and its 48k pesos per person. They only serve lunch (3k pesos pp) and free brekkie so bring your own food!! Great trip thou.
PPPS some travellers baffle me ... one guy sat in the canteen watching movies and working on his laptop for the entire ferry trip. Be cheaper to stay at home and get the local bus around in circles.
The ferry trip was incredible. Flat as a pancake all the way, our 4 bed bunk room was lovely, we had a private toilet, 1 other fella sharing with us, loads of room, comfy beds, towels, showers, fresh linen and best of all the rooms are all above deck so happy days (memories of a trip to Estonia from Stockholm are still fresh!). We were so lucky with the weather, no winds so we made it in 4 hours before schedule which allowed us to get to Coyhaique last night. We saw a pod of dolphins (dunno what kind but they were bigger then any dolphins we have seen before), 2 whales (dunno what kind), seals, penguins (wow they literally fly thru the water so fast!), amazing scenery on the way on the ferry so pretty happy with that. The dolphins were incredible and swam under the bow of the ship for awhile.
Got into Puerto Chacubaco at 7pm last night and managed to get the 2 required buses to Coyhaique. The drive (about 80kms) was unbeleivably pretty and scenic. High, snow capped rocky mountains, lush forest to the tree line, lovely grassy valley with tasty looking cows (all that good beef in Argentina has me beef obsessed too).
Arrived into Coyhaique and eventually found the hostel (Hostel Baquranda) we had booked (since we are so organised and its high season). There was no sign so we slightly worried about it being the right place. The guy showed us the room but said there was a problem cause the Chileans like to party over New Year so we thought ok maybe the place is a little thrashed. Turned out he had kept us a room next to a room that was being built but wasn´t completed yet as the builders were too hungover. That was fine - what wasn´t so fine was the ´bed´ situation. He wanted 17 euros for a single bed that looked like it was going to fall apart and single air mattress on the floor for one of us ... hardly bloody matrimonial. SO we told him nicely no way. He got a bit huffed about that - seriously - and said we´d never find another place now. At that stage I would have preferred the park bench then pay the cheeky bugger anything. Anyways its bright here til nearly 10.30pm so we walked around and found another great (Hostal Licrayen 20k pesos) place with the best brekkie and lovely woman running the show.
In the midst of car hiring now so better go and do that (or help Dunk do something more productive then me blogging!).
PS went for sunny afternoon beers in Puerto Varas with Andy and Mary before the ferry trip which was great fun
PPS the ferry is the Navimag one and its 48k pesos per person. They only serve lunch (3k pesos pp) and free brekkie so bring your own food!! Great trip thou.
PPPS some travellers baffle me ... one guy sat in the canteen watching movies and working on his laptop for the entire ferry trip. Be cheaper to stay at home and get the local bus around in circles.
Wednesday, January 2, 2008
Buenos Aires to Puerto Varas, Chile
First of all Happy New Year to you all and that ye all had a good Xmas break.
We spent Xmas day in Buenos Aires in my Aunty Helen´s beautiful colonial apartment (photos will appear at some stage) with Helen and her friends from Vancouver Mary and Andy where we dined on the traditional Argentian parilla (a kind of meat fest bbq). Dunk had the honour of standing on the roof deck backing in the heat of the sun and hot tiled floor to bbq us a perfect feast. Andy was his able assistance who made sure everything was cooked perfectly (and that Dunk was well watered and beered). We did have loads of gorgeous salads which probably is a mortal sin in Argentina (to waste belly space with silly vegtables), lots of fab vino, chocolate and a dessert (cant remember the name) which is quince tart and just divine. So thanks Helen for putting on such a splash and feeding us up so well during our stay in BA!! I think we both gained at least a stone of weight!!
Spent another couple of days in BA which was mostly sorting out our packs and trying to reduce our weight and create some more space for food which we will now have to carry as we will be camping down the Carretas Austral. Went to a fab french restaurant on our last night called Bouchon. I had the best dessert ever - a chocolate thing with really blackcurrant sauce and on the inside a beautiful berry sauce. Divine!!
On the 28th we headed to Bariloche via 17 hours on a bus in cama ejectivo which basically means large plush seats and loads of leg room plus blankets and pillow and agreable enough food. The best thing was thou that they didn´t play hours of bad movies at top volume so we could sleep!! Arrived in Bariloche on a cold blustery morning. Stayed at La Barraca hostel which was very welcoming, had great facilities and good views too. รง
Bariloche was surprisngly ok considering we had heard it was a nightmare of tourists and school groups at this time of the year. Ok there is lots of them but its a big town and seems to handle all the tourists reasonably well. The weather was pretty cold 15C with a gale force wind off the mountains over the lake but its a very pretty setting. Wasn´t too impressed by the chocolate thou - maybe cos Andy and Mary had given us a bar of swiss for Xmas and that was just as good as it gets (have I mentioned chocolate a lot - seems like I have, well you would too after 3 months choc deprivation and then suddenly its everywhere!!).
On the 30th we had an early 7.30 bus to Puerto Montt in Chile. At 6am was woken up by a taxi beeping incessantly outside our hostel. Had a mini panic and went oh crap we have slept in, but checked our watches and it was only 6 for definite so relaxed but the beeping continued. Eventually the guy came to the door of the hostel and Dunk went down to be told the clocks had changed and it was in fact 7am .. well now about 7.05am - AGGGGHH panic pack in 3 minutes, no time for toilet stop even, jump into the taxi and off we went to the bus station in a very bedraggled state. Arrived in time jumped on the bus and off we went. Phew. 2 things about this story are the taxi guy was lovely and didn´t overcharge us for having to wait AND WHAT THE F(/& are the clocks doing changing on Dec 30th????????? Bizarre. Whats even more bizarre is that Chile is now an hour behind Argentina even tho its further west.
Anyways the bus journey was crap, rained all the way, 2 one hour stops at Chilean and Argentian borders standing in the cold and then we arrived in Puerto Montt (starving by this stage cos we couldn´t eat the sugar infused lunch pack we got on the bus which consisted of either sweet or very sweet things). We had heard bad things about Puerto Montt being a dour port town and if ever a town lived up to its reputation this one did. We briefly considered heading to Puerto Varas but weren´t too sure how far it was and being tired, hungry and very sick of buses we made the bad decision to stay in Puerto Montt in the rain and cold. We stayed in a hospedaje that a little lady touted us at the station. Now it was nice enough place, clean but very small and probably would have been fine except Dunk was allergic to the blankets, it was on a hill with the main bus-truck road directly out front (even tho it was a narrow street and didn´t look like it would be bsuy at all), and we had Chilean guests from hell next door who shrieked for ages at 3am in the morning. I wish I had packed my hurley sometimes. Anyways since the Swedish couple next room thought it was us (speaking rapid loud Spanish???) and started banging on our walls, we started banging on their walls and eventually the noisy culprits calmed a bit.
We ate lunch a local kind of bar where all the locals were tucking into MASSIVE mounds of what seems to be the local equivalent of laksa in Sydney - gourmet dining at its best NOT. This mound of stuff which is called picada is basically french fries, olives, lumps of cheese, lump, s of hot dog, some sausage and in the real fancy version maybe some strips of meat and a couple of fried eggs thrown on top. What a bizarre combination. We settled for the steak sambos instead which were good. That night we visited the local recommended seafood restaurants down at the end at fishing port of Angelmo. Look its kind of cute with rows of little restaurants sitting up above the water and all well set up and clean but jaysus the food was basic for the price. Like I could do better on the camp stove with my eyes closed. I had a seafood soup and it was more like sand stew as none of the mussels were washed out. Dunk had salmon and it was basically slapped onto a plate - I´d present better to the dogs at home like.
Ok enough Puerto Montt rant - my advice NEVER stay there EVER.
We booked tickets on the ferry to Coyhaique for wednesday and then legged it on the bus to Puerto Varas (which is a mere 20 minutes) but world´s apart. Its a small cute touristy place on a beautiful lake overlooking a couple of volcanos (altho we still haven´t seen the top of them with the clouds!) and just so different we couldn´t beleive it. Stayed in a nice, friendly hospedaje (like a B&B without the breakfast) near the town centre and just wandered around revelling in the cleanliness and lack of falling down, unkempt buildings and miserably sad looking people.
On New Years Eve we got wine and nibblies and sat on the lake shore watching the sun set (between the rain drops and showers ;) ), then found the only bar in town for horrendously expensive beer (3 euros each for 330ml) and then joined the locals on the lake front to see the fireworks which was hilarious. All the town families and people were out with champers and drenched everyone and even the fireworks weren´t so bad.
On New Years day we got the local bus to Petrohue (after a slow sore heads start to the day) which is an hour from Puerto Varas and set on the Lago Todos Los Santos. Its very beautiful, heaps of places to stay and camp on the way out there, and very Germanic looking with lots of wooden gernam style houses serving lunch and afternoon tea. The only downside was the horseflies which are massive, lots of them and very persistent and impossible to kill altho they dont really sting so thats not so bad. Did a lovely walk along the lake shore which is lava sand and with stunning views of some volcanoes (once again the tops in the clouds) and mountains nearby. The west side of the Andes is much greener and more lush then east side but also rains more. We really are impressed tho. Could probably have spent more time here if we had known it was that easy to get out to the campsites etc.
Last night we met Mary and Andy by arrangement but mostly unexpectedly cos they didn`t expect us to stay in Puerto Montt and we didn´t know if they would either as they only got in that evening. Their first impressions on Puerto Montt were equal to ours! We found one of the only restaurants open (everything was shut yesterday) and had a surprisingly good meal overlooking the waters - even Puerto Montt began to look ok (hmm maybe that was the wine goggles).
Tonight we´re off on the 24 hour ferry to Coyhaique which is on the Carretas Austral, the road that winds south of here. The plan is to hire a car (or hook up with some other backpackers who have a car) and spend a week camping an exploring the area north of Coyhaique, including Park Pumalin (3 days), PN Quelat, and anything else we can find of interest. Will be camping all the way so hoping the weather clears up a little bit for us but the climate here is like west coast Ireland and New Zealand so chances are we´re going to get wet. Heaps of great looking day walks too so looking forward to that. After that going to use Coyhaique as base for some longer treks but more on that before it happens.
We spent Xmas day in Buenos Aires in my Aunty Helen´s beautiful colonial apartment (photos will appear at some stage) with Helen and her friends from Vancouver Mary and Andy where we dined on the traditional Argentian parilla (a kind of meat fest bbq). Dunk had the honour of standing on the roof deck backing in the heat of the sun and hot tiled floor to bbq us a perfect feast. Andy was his able assistance who made sure everything was cooked perfectly (and that Dunk was well watered and beered). We did have loads of gorgeous salads which probably is a mortal sin in Argentina (to waste belly space with silly vegtables), lots of fab vino, chocolate and a dessert (cant remember the name) which is quince tart and just divine. So thanks Helen for putting on such a splash and feeding us up so well during our stay in BA!! I think we both gained at least a stone of weight!!
Spent another couple of days in BA which was mostly sorting out our packs and trying to reduce our weight and create some more space for food which we will now have to carry as we will be camping down the Carretas Austral. Went to a fab french restaurant on our last night called Bouchon. I had the best dessert ever - a chocolate thing with really blackcurrant sauce and on the inside a beautiful berry sauce. Divine!!
On the 28th we headed to Bariloche via 17 hours on a bus in cama ejectivo which basically means large plush seats and loads of leg room plus blankets and pillow and agreable enough food. The best thing was thou that they didn´t play hours of bad movies at top volume so we could sleep!! Arrived in Bariloche on a cold blustery morning. Stayed at La Barraca hostel which was very welcoming, had great facilities and good views too. รง
Bariloche was surprisngly ok considering we had heard it was a nightmare of tourists and school groups at this time of the year. Ok there is lots of them but its a big town and seems to handle all the tourists reasonably well. The weather was pretty cold 15C with a gale force wind off the mountains over the lake but its a very pretty setting. Wasn´t too impressed by the chocolate thou - maybe cos Andy and Mary had given us a bar of swiss for Xmas and that was just as good as it gets (have I mentioned chocolate a lot - seems like I have, well you would too after 3 months choc deprivation and then suddenly its everywhere!!).
On the 30th we had an early 7.30 bus to Puerto Montt in Chile. At 6am was woken up by a taxi beeping incessantly outside our hostel. Had a mini panic and went oh crap we have slept in, but checked our watches and it was only 6 for definite so relaxed but the beeping continued. Eventually the guy came to the door of the hostel and Dunk went down to be told the clocks had changed and it was in fact 7am .. well now about 7.05am - AGGGGHH panic pack in 3 minutes, no time for toilet stop even, jump into the taxi and off we went to the bus station in a very bedraggled state. Arrived in time jumped on the bus and off we went. Phew. 2 things about this story are the taxi guy was lovely and didn´t overcharge us for having to wait AND WHAT THE F(/& are the clocks doing changing on Dec 30th????????? Bizarre. Whats even more bizarre is that Chile is now an hour behind Argentina even tho its further west.
Anyways the bus journey was crap, rained all the way, 2 one hour stops at Chilean and Argentian borders standing in the cold and then we arrived in Puerto Montt (starving by this stage cos we couldn´t eat the sugar infused lunch pack we got on the bus which consisted of either sweet or very sweet things). We had heard bad things about Puerto Montt being a dour port town and if ever a town lived up to its reputation this one did. We briefly considered heading to Puerto Varas but weren´t too sure how far it was and being tired, hungry and very sick of buses we made the bad decision to stay in Puerto Montt in the rain and cold. We stayed in a hospedaje that a little lady touted us at the station. Now it was nice enough place, clean but very small and probably would have been fine except Dunk was allergic to the blankets, it was on a hill with the main bus-truck road directly out front (even tho it was a narrow street and didn´t look like it would be bsuy at all), and we had Chilean guests from hell next door who shrieked for ages at 3am in the morning. I wish I had packed my hurley sometimes. Anyways since the Swedish couple next room thought it was us (speaking rapid loud Spanish???) and started banging on our walls, we started banging on their walls and eventually the noisy culprits calmed a bit.
We ate lunch a local kind of bar where all the locals were tucking into MASSIVE mounds of what seems to be the local equivalent of laksa in Sydney - gourmet dining at its best NOT. This mound of stuff which is called picada is basically french fries, olives, lumps of cheese, lump, s of hot dog, some sausage and in the real fancy version maybe some strips of meat and a couple of fried eggs thrown on top. What a bizarre combination. We settled for the steak sambos instead which were good. That night we visited the local recommended seafood restaurants down at the end at fishing port of Angelmo. Look its kind of cute with rows of little restaurants sitting up above the water and all well set up and clean but jaysus the food was basic for the price. Like I could do better on the camp stove with my eyes closed. I had a seafood soup and it was more like sand stew as none of the mussels were washed out. Dunk had salmon and it was basically slapped onto a plate - I´d present better to the dogs at home like.
Ok enough Puerto Montt rant - my advice NEVER stay there EVER.
We booked tickets on the ferry to Coyhaique for wednesday and then legged it on the bus to Puerto Varas (which is a mere 20 minutes) but world´s apart. Its a small cute touristy place on a beautiful lake overlooking a couple of volcanos (altho we still haven´t seen the top of them with the clouds!) and just so different we couldn´t beleive it. Stayed in a nice, friendly hospedaje (like a B&B without the breakfast) near the town centre and just wandered around revelling in the cleanliness and lack of falling down, unkempt buildings and miserably sad looking people.
On New Years Eve we got wine and nibblies and sat on the lake shore watching the sun set (between the rain drops and showers ;) ), then found the only bar in town for horrendously expensive beer (3 euros each for 330ml) and then joined the locals on the lake front to see the fireworks which was hilarious. All the town families and people were out with champers and drenched everyone and even the fireworks weren´t so bad.
On New Years day we got the local bus to Petrohue (after a slow sore heads start to the day) which is an hour from Puerto Varas and set on the Lago Todos Los Santos. Its very beautiful, heaps of places to stay and camp on the way out there, and very Germanic looking with lots of wooden gernam style houses serving lunch and afternoon tea. The only downside was the horseflies which are massive, lots of them and very persistent and impossible to kill altho they dont really sting so thats not so bad. Did a lovely walk along the lake shore which is lava sand and with stunning views of some volcanoes (once again the tops in the clouds) and mountains nearby. The west side of the Andes is much greener and more lush then east side but also rains more. We really are impressed tho. Could probably have spent more time here if we had known it was that easy to get out to the campsites etc.
Last night we met Mary and Andy by arrangement but mostly unexpectedly cos they didn`t expect us to stay in Puerto Montt and we didn´t know if they would either as they only got in that evening. Their first impressions on Puerto Montt were equal to ours! We found one of the only restaurants open (everything was shut yesterday) and had a surprisingly good meal overlooking the waters - even Puerto Montt began to look ok (hmm maybe that was the wine goggles).
Tonight we´re off on the 24 hour ferry to Coyhaique which is on the Carretas Austral, the road that winds south of here. The plan is to hire a car (or hook up with some other backpackers who have a car) and spend a week camping an exploring the area north of Coyhaique, including Park Pumalin (3 days), PN Quelat, and anything else we can find of interest. Will be camping all the way so hoping the weather clears up a little bit for us but the climate here is like west coast Ireland and New Zealand so chances are we´re going to get wet. Heaps of great looking day walks too so looking forward to that. After that going to use Coyhaique as base for some longer treks but more on that before it happens.
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