For the last 5 nights based ourselves at Bullara station which is a massive cattle station (250000 acres) that also runs a highly efficient and professional caravan park. Best hottest showers ever which was well timed as we were pretty stinky and dusty after 7 days in national parks. Was blowing a gale when we arrived so even managed to get clean and dry bedding that night. First cold weather for 2 months was a shock thou. Was about 10 degrees so we had to dig out jackets even. The station is situated half way between Exmouth and Coral bay both of which have very densely packed and full caravan parks so decided to spend an hour commuting rather then being stuck in a miserable squash of caravan.
First day was also cloudy which was also a bit of a novelty and not very conducive to going swimming especially with the end blowing pretty hard. Decided to go and explore the Cape Range national Park. The park runs from near the station all the way up the peninsula to the top of the Cape. It's limestone with huge canyons and gorges and covered in an abundance of green Spinifex and heath like shrubs plus wildflowers everywhere. Did the hike along the tops to see shothole canyon which was like something straight out of a John Wayne western. Typical limestone formations along the way then the canyon is very deep and spectacular. Totally unexpected. Stocked up on a bit of food and fuel in Exmouth which is actually not a bad little town and returned to the very windy campsite. Was burger night at the station so we lined up for our $12.50 burgers watching them being cooked on a massive plate over a huge fire. Some operation! There was also a bloke singing who was actually quite good and didn't sing country and western. Phew.
Next day was still windy so our snorkeling tour was postponed for a day. Instead we drive over to the western side of the Cape where the Ningaloo reef runs right upto the land. Beautiful beaches which are either fantastic for snorkeling or surfing so loads of surfy backpackers around which was great to see. Visited mangrove bay first and the bird hide. Beautiful beach which we walked along without seeing another soul. Next up went to the visitor Centre at milyering which had heaps of really good info on the land and sea flora and fauna. Even managed to find a picnic table under the shade of the verandah and out of the wind. Went for a snorkel at Lakeside which is just beautiful but jeez the water was cold. Or maybe the water was ok but when you stood up and got out the wind just froze us. Not much Coral but plenty fish like damselfish. I checked the water temps and it's allegedly 20c so I feel very embarrassed that we are that acclimatised we only managed about 10 minutes in the water before turning purple and starting to shake and chatter with the cold. Soft!!! Went and did the 3km Munda Munda gorge walk nearby to warm up and 30 minutes later we're sweating bricks! Very spectacular gorge again but no water. Fantastic views out over the reef. Even saw a humpback off shore! Went back in for a snorkel at turquoise bay which was just so stunning and beautiful. Was lovely but a bit murky with the tide changing and once again froze within 15 minutes! Drive back in the sunset was beautiful with all the wildflowers, red sand and dunes and green Spinifex catching the light. Oh I forgot we also visited the lighthouse in the morning which had huge views over coast, reef and land. Saw the Harold holdt naval communications centre. Bit of an ironic name given he's the prime Minister who went for swim and never was seen again.
On Sunday the snorkeling tour we booked was able to go ahead as planned even thou it was still a bit windy. Early start as had to be in Exmouth for 7.30. very friendly helpful crew and we all got fitted out with snorkels, fins and wetsuits. The sea was about 2-3m and choppy enough but we didn't get sick. Saw a whale on the way out to the muiron islands which was our destination for the day. First stop was at the keyhole site. I have to admit I was scared jumping off the boat which was rocking about in the swell into basically the open ocean. Just before we got in a huge humpback cruised past us like 20m from the boat which was incredible and very funny too cos all the divers who had just jumped in didn't see it even thou it was like 5m from them as they were looking the other way!! W snorkeled about 200m away from the boat and as a mum it was a bit heart stopping watching the kids but they were just brilliant and loved it. Laura just kept heading off chasing whatever fish she saw. Got out about 45 min later all frozen but elated. The coral was incredible. The colours and structure were just unbelievable. At the next snorkel site, we saw heaps of parrot fish who eat the coral plus a heap of other tropical fish that I can't remember the name of. Amazing experience to be floating on the sea looking at the glorious show on display underneath. On the way back we sat up the front as the seas had calmed considerably. There was still a couple of people very very sick. Saw a manta ray which was soooo serene and huge 3-4 metres and just kind of floated there before heading off. Also saw a sea snake that popped up a couple of metres from the boat. So venomous but striking Orange/yellow colours. Glad we weren't in the sea!! Such an adrenaline filled, exciting day exploring the beauty of the sea plus getting a taste of what it's like to be rough seas.
Next morning we woke up pretty tired and couldn't decide where to move to next so just booked in for an extra night at the station. Had to move campsites thou and hang around for the other people to move so after a lazy, late start drive down to Coral bay. Now we had heard that this place was amazing so we were very underwhelmed when we arrived into what is essentially a ginormous, packed in like sardines caravan Park. People were literally on top of each other in tiny little open dusty spaces. Ugh. The beach at Billy's bay and Paradise beach are just stunning turquoise thou and after lunch we got our act together. Went for a snorkel at Billy's bay first which was good but cloudy then walked down Paradise beach. The ride was going out so the reef was literally metres from the shore edge. We walked in and immediately had about 20 different types of tropical fish right next to us. It was soooo exciting and clear. The Coral looked a bit dull but the shapes and structures and number and variety of fish was just jaw dropping. I even saw a lion fish which also scared me but it went the other way. I was also eye balled by a grey fish with purple spots behind it's fins. It would just zoom straight at my mask then veer off just before hitting me. I presume it was protecting its territory. Stayed in till we were shaking with the cold but so hyper and elated.
It's been an incredible experience sharing this with the kids and pushing all of us out of our comfort zones. Even the sunsets and sunrises and landscape have been epic. Tempted to stay another day but the kids faces are red sore from masks plus we're all a bit tired. Time to move on again but hopefully one day we'll get a chance to come back.
#END
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