We left Borroloola early on Sunday morning, stopping at Caranbirini Reserve about 45km west. It was an amazing spot with many different geographical zones and habitats in a very small area. The main highlight were the stunning sandstone formations and columns that we walked thru which was intermingled with flowering gums and grevilleas with orange, wine, white, yellow flowers. Stunning colours and contrasts but glad we went early as it was hot at the end of the 7.5km walk. Heaps of paperbarks and ghost gums in the drier sections. Loads of birds down at the lagoon including green backed pygmy geese.
From there we headed north to Lorella Springs. It was about 150km of unsealed corrugations and bull dust. Unfortunately the roof rack claws failed half way there so we had to do some road side repairs in about 35C of dry heat. Most people slowed down but there were a couple of Richards who choose to cloud us in dust.
Camped at the homestead which was heaving by NT standards - we still had about 50m between camp groups but the toilets overflowed so went remote camping for the next 4 days. We decided to base ourselves at the entrance to Ship Creek Valley. It was a long day of some very rough corrugations and bull dust plus our initial attempt to find a nice place to swim was not a success. We did go for a paddle in the canoe at Crocidile Springs which was a gorgeous billabong shaded by gigantic paper barks. Drove to Fossil Fern pool then but was stagnant. It reallly dries up fast in this area. After lunch we went to a place called Waterslide and Indiana Falls which was fanatastic cool deep pools embedded in the rock which you could slide down between. Fantastic fun and must be epic earlier in the season.
Eventually found a place to camp which was pot luck and probably the best site around the area we choose to explore. Next to a lovely fresh creek, shaded by trees, heaps of frogs and birds. Saw Masked and Long Tailed Finches for the first time. Very exciting plus a couple of snakes and heard barking and boobok owls at night. The skies were so clear and saw shooting stars every night. NT sunsets are to be seen to be beleived. Just a kaleidoscope of colour and changes over 20-30 minutes. We spent 4 nights camping there.
Explored up into Ship Creek valley and climbed a rocky hill covered in spinifex so the girls got to wear gaitors in anger for the first time. Brilliant views of the whole station at the top. We then bashed across and thru a swamp where the reeds/spinifex/bushes where definitely as tall as me so the kids were chewing dust but didn't know better to complain. Cooled off with a swim in the pools which was just glorious.
Next days explored Valley of Ghosts. Full of limestone formatons and caves. Found this fantastic waterfall which went thru a gorge and has natural staircase we could climb up and sit on. Heaps of rock art and fun clambering about on. Very hot in the afternoons thou so we just sat around the camp site chilling out.
On the last day we explored Nanny's Retreat area which is an outstandingly beautiful sandstone gorge fed by fresh water springs and pretty deep and clear as well. Reckon the deepest bit was 3-4m and so clear. Kids loved it. We bashed up and found our own personal pools to swim in first thou. Was so much fun exploring all the sandstone caves and features and then finding this amazing pool with noone around at all. Yopu'd be almost tempted to skinny dip ESPECIALLY if it shocked and embarrased the kids beyond belief. BUT I'd never do something like that ;)
Drove out of Lorella Springs on the the Friday, stopping for an ice cream and a dip in the magical hot spring near the homestead. Also to sign out as they send a search party if you don't turn up on the expected day (charging $500 a day or something).
Lorella Springs is an incredible remote experience. We mostly avoided the crowds and the rough road conditions put off all but the most willing (foolhardy?) to risk some damage to vehicle. We only explored one area but could easily spend a month here as there's about 1000km of track to drive around. Some folks choose to drive from place to place but after 5 days in the car on mostly dirt (maybe 1500kms from Karumba) and a bust roof rack plus over the driving kids we based in one place. Perfect for us to explore by foot which is always so rewarding. There are other areas like the beach, an area of billaongs and swamps, more ranges (we stuck to the Yiyinti) and formations so much to do. Probably not the place for a caravan (we saw one sitting sadly with a seriously busy axle) but plenty trailers and tents. So glad we did it.
From there we drove onto the Southern Lost City in Limmen NP. After the excitement and adventure of Lorella, we didn't have hugh expectations but the scenery and place was just so beautiful. Its full of towers and columns of sandstone which have been eroded over millions of years. Great little basic campsite with drop toilets (a nice break from the ole shovel and hole in the ground!) but just the most stunning location looking onto the sandstone city. Loads of birds and fruit bats at night. Saw a humongous couple of spiders in the information shelter. Think grey hairy tarantula!! Did a night walk and sat between the columns watching the moon go down over them. Incredible. Campsite was $7.70 per family hahaha!
Next day we drove north stopping at Butterfly Falls for a swim. Its a big cleft in the rock with a deep and very cold pool at the bottom for a breath taking dip. Surrounded by massive paperbarks and screeching cockatoos. Really nice campsite but we decided to press on. Met a couple who told us that Katherine and Mataranka was full to the brim so unless we drive in early we'd be 'homeless'. Instead we decided to go slow and lunched on the verandah at Nathan River Ranger Station (which has its own little airstrip). Very pleasant and cool and heaps of info on the history, geology, flora and fauna of the region. Eventually camped at Roper Bar which has two turds of SFA unless you like fishing but it was a very peaceful, quiet place with flushing toilets and cold showers. There was a couple parked up watching the AFL on satelite in between fishing in the creek. We did see a fresh water croc on one of the creek crossings as well. Oh and we completely broke the roof rack which is now tied down to the underneath of the car with a tie down strap. Piece of poo. The rivets broke and we don't think we overloaded the rack, just hit some very bad corrugations over the course of the last 10 days.
Now in Elsey NP which is lovely (althou soooo dry) Mataranka is a sad little place with a very obvious alcohol issue with some of the local indigenous. Bitter Springs makes an epic place to swim thou and we got some pool noodles and floated up and down the very warm springs. So deep and clear and amazing colours. Pretty fun. Sitting around waiting for the day to cool down and doing some admin before heading north to Darwin on Tuesday!
Wednesday, July 21, 2021
Lorella Springs, Limmen NP and Elsey NP
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