The bus trip from Puerto Montt to Bariloche was absolutely beautiful ... we had sunshine and clear skies all the way up and over the Andes and back down into Argentina again. Saying that it was still 7 hours on a bus, some of which was queues for border controls so at least we got to stretch our legs. Bariloche looked great in the sunset and we found a hostel at first attempt so very lucky with that too. In fact I dont think we even realised how lucky as everything here is still very busy with Easter coming up and feels like the end of summer so I presume everyone is out for one last blast. Its good to be back in the land of good food as well ;)
Did a half day trip out to area around Hotel Llao Llao which is one of Argentina´s most exclusive and scenically located hotels. Really beautiful scenery and from there we did a few hours walking around the edge of Lago Nahuel Huapi which is in the national park of the same name. Climbed up onto Cerro Llao Llao for panoramic views of the lake and surrounding mountains. It was a glorious day as well (except for the wasps which seem to be increasing in number as Autumn approaches). The drive out from Bariloche on the local bus is amazing for the scenery but also for the amount of cabanas (cabins), hotels and places for tourists. Unbeleivable really and all catering for the rich too. No skanky hostels out that road!! Maybe when all the tourists leave after Easter we can find some place thats empty and desperate and will let us stay for a cheap price ;)
Since the weather was holding so well we decided to head out on a 4 day hike. Even the shopping for food for the hike is easier in Argentina as we dont have the bland no choice of salami, cheese and dried bread for lunch, oats for brekkie and dinner of eother pasta or rice with some kind of flavouring. We even got tomato paste for this hike since it was going to be a nice short one, plus found a deli where we could choose different types of cheese for lunch ... droool. Sometimes its the small things which add up to make ya tired of travelling!
Headed out to Pampa Linda on the 7.30am bus which we had luckily booked as sometourists were turned away. Its about a 3 hour drive mostly on gravel roads out past lago Mascardi (very beautiful and turquoise), stop for mandatory park entrance fee (the usual charge the foreigners more then locals but in fairness in this case it was only 20 pesos so we didn´t mind), a quick stop at Hotel Tronador (which looked amazing in a fantastic location - if your loaded might be worth a look into staying here), followed by an obligatory stop at some other in the middle of nowhere cafe for the bus driver´s quick top up of caffeine and nicotine and eventually to Pampa Linda.This is a little tiny spot in the heart of Park Nacional Nahuel Huapi and gateway to walks near Monte Tronador. There´s a hosteria, restaurant, cafe, national park inf, camping and horses for hire.
We registered for our hike and headed off in the direction of Monte Tronador. The track is 4wd forthe first 3-4 kms and is well trodden by horses and humans so no need for navigation. You couldn`t stray too far off the trail anyways as there`s massive thickets of bamboo everywhere. We did a side trip for lunch up the valley to see Glacier Costana Overa pouring over the sides of the valley with loads of waterfalls and condors circling the top of the valley. Very spectacular.
From there, we returned to main track, picked up the big packs and headed up the steep, slippery climb to Refugio Otto Meiling. The forest was very beautiful with huge, old trees, bamboo and just lovely to walk thru. The track is a mess tho with shortcuts and erosion everywhere. There´s horses,mules and plenty people up and down here every day and looks like noone takes the same route which is a pity. Once we reached the treeline, the scenery was immense with Monte Tronador and the glaciers from it sweeping out in front and then all around the rest of the view was just mountains as far as the eye could see. The walk along the ridge to where the hut is is quite exposed but easy enough going aside from being up a mountain!
We got to the hut around 4.30 and went to register and find out what the story with camping was (its free, exposed, use the toilets in the hut) and also if we could do some walking on the glacier with the mountain guide. Turns out he was bringing out a group at 5.15pm so we quickly set up our tent in what we hoped was a reasonably sheltered spot, armed our tummies with a packet of biscuits, lots of water and nuts and headed out on the glacier 30 minutes after arriving which was a bit of a shock to the system!
The glacier walk was superb. For 100 pesos each (about 22 euros) we got 3hours on the glacier with a really good informative guide and all equipment provided (well boots, crampons, harness and ice axe). The tour was mostly in Spanish but he translated to English for us when we got stuck. Its really special walking on a glacier and as we learnt to trust our boots and crampons more (its incredible how well they stick to the ice) it just more and more fun. There was also an ice climb which I piked on as my fear of heights came rushing out in all its glory. In my defence the spot he choose was to launch off a crevasse at least 30m deep (altho I couldn´t really see the bottom) and to start at the top so I was just too scared (and had no spare pants to change into if it got stained!!). Dunk was well up for it and loved it. Got about 50 photos of him doing it so we will put a few of them online when we finda machine that doesn´t crap itself when we plug in the camera. Got pretty cold on the glacier tho as the clouds came over so in the end were happy enough to be finished. Also the boots are really stiff and make ya walk like someone who has been horseriding for 12 hours non stop so happy enough to get out of them too!
Quickly cooked up a good hot dinner and watched the stunning sunset over a vista of montains all around. Monte Tronador is actually 3 peaks - Pico Argentina, Pico Chile and Pico Internacional - which the Argentian- Chile border runs down the middle of (I will let you figure out which peak is where from the names!). We could see for miles and miles in all directions and it was just amazing. Slept like logs that night - a glacier hike and excitement after a 4 hour hike upto 2000m does that to ya! Also the hut ie Refugio Otto Meiling is amazing. Its completly concrete walled (no bricks), well insulated, and you can get all the food you need cooked up for ya plus sleep there. Being tight ass backpackers with our own equipment we obviously did it the independent way but would highly recommend a trip up there. The hut and camping site are located at the edge of a finger of rock that creeps up the side of glacier Costana Overa and peers over a cliff onto another glacier (cant remember the name) of the other side. Really incredible site.
The next morning we awoke to a glorious sunset. Took it niceand easy and wandered around the rocks above the shelter. There was an incredible amount of condors taking advantage of the rising winds so we decided to spend an extra night admiring the views and chilling out. After lunch the condors went nuts and it was the equivalent of a condor fest as upto 40 condors soared over, above and alongside the cliff running above the hut. They also landed on the ice on the glacier. We were slightly nervous eating lunch as we saw a condor poo near our tent and to be honest the thought of 2 litres of skanky, green, oozy, big-bird poo landing on a sandwich helped us wolf down lunch rapidly. These birds are massive ... like I know I can exagerate but its like having something the size of a pillow with a 1 metre wing each side and a goddamn ugly turkey head stuck to the front hanging over you. Their not the prettiest bird in the world but we´d have to go along way to see something as spectacular as this again. Also on a side note this is infinitely better then condor watching in Colca Canyon in Peru. After an hour or two or playing in the thermals they all suddenly decided to head off and that was the end of that show.
The winds had been picking up all day and were now blowing a gale. We had a reasonably sheltered spot behind a rock wall and made sure everything was pegged well. Dinner was a gusty, cold affair with ample sprinkles of rock dust and sand and no fear of burning your mouth as the wind cooled everything down quickly. We nearly lost our plates in washup and am sure everyone in the hut was highly amused to see us frantically dashing after them. We avoided the warmth of the hut cos nothing worse then the nice smell of toast and warm room knowing we had to spend the night in the tent! That night we didn´t sleep much. Its pretty difficult with the tent rattling and flapping so loudly we had to shout at each other to be heard. Its also slightly disconcerting to feel your body being lifted up in the tent by the larger gusts. Dunk did a quick mid night prowl to make sure everything was holding ok and it was. In the morning the wind was still roaring despite the rains having started. We found our backpacks and shoes (which were in the tents vestibules) covered (seriously coated) in a layer of dust and earth plus some of the finer stuff had got thru the tent fly so we know have slightly dusty bags, clothes, thermarests etc. Brekkie was in the tent as everything would have blown away or else been soaked. Also managed to pack our bags in the tent. Taking down the tent was a hazardous affair tho but we managed not to loose it or any of the pegs or poles. the 2 main poles on the tent now each have an identical bend which we presume was from the continous onslaught all night. Hope it wont make a big difference to the tent.
Headed off back down the ridge slowly as the wind threatened to send us paragliding with our packs a few times. Having a backpack in wind like that is pretty annoying as it acts like a sail and catches all the gusts. Made it to the treeline and it was like stepping into a different planet - calm, warmish and very pleasant. We did a side trip to a steep mirador of the valley just before Pampa Linda and then hung around for the 5pm bus. We piked a day early as the forecast was awful for sunday altho its not been too bad but we are 40kms from the mountains and it looks a lot gloomier out there.
Did our first dorm bed experience last night as well as there was only 2 beds left in the hostel and we couldn´t be bothered finding another place. The dorm I was in had 2 noisy buggers who took ages to pack up at 6am this morning (they had also woken me at midnight by turning on all the lights and having a loud conversation gggggrrrrrrr)- I was going to get up and help them cos they were making so much noise. Thankfully its back to ole-married-couple style travels tonight and we have our own room again ;)
We´re staying in Bariloche for the next few days to eat chocolate, icecream, good food and celebrate Paddy´s day and from there we will probably head to El Bolson. Running out of travel steam a bit and the novelty of living in a backpack is beginning to wear very old. Still thou all I have to do to recover my enthusiasm is remember those interminable daily morning defect meetings I used to have to go to this time last year and the backpack doesn´t seem so painful after all! I can hear all the pity ye have for us ... hahahaha! Anyways Happy Paddy´s day to everyone - we will drown the shamrock in Bariloche!
Did a half day trip out to area around Hotel Llao Llao which is one of Argentina´s most exclusive and scenically located hotels. Really beautiful scenery and from there we did a few hours walking around the edge of Lago Nahuel Huapi which is in the national park of the same name. Climbed up onto Cerro Llao Llao for panoramic views of the lake and surrounding mountains. It was a glorious day as well (except for the wasps which seem to be increasing in number as Autumn approaches). The drive out from Bariloche on the local bus is amazing for the scenery but also for the amount of cabanas (cabins), hotels and places for tourists. Unbeleivable really and all catering for the rich too. No skanky hostels out that road!! Maybe when all the tourists leave after Easter we can find some place thats empty and desperate and will let us stay for a cheap price ;)
Since the weather was holding so well we decided to head out on a 4 day hike. Even the shopping for food for the hike is easier in Argentina as we dont have the bland no choice of salami, cheese and dried bread for lunch, oats for brekkie and dinner of eother pasta or rice with some kind of flavouring. We even got tomato paste for this hike since it was going to be a nice short one, plus found a deli where we could choose different types of cheese for lunch ... droool. Sometimes its the small things which add up to make ya tired of travelling!
Headed out to Pampa Linda on the 7.30am bus which we had luckily booked as sometourists were turned away. Its about a 3 hour drive mostly on gravel roads out past lago Mascardi (very beautiful and turquoise), stop for mandatory park entrance fee (the usual charge the foreigners more then locals but in fairness in this case it was only 20 pesos so we didn´t mind), a quick stop at Hotel Tronador (which looked amazing in a fantastic location - if your loaded might be worth a look into staying here), followed by an obligatory stop at some other in the middle of nowhere cafe for the bus driver´s quick top up of caffeine and nicotine and eventually to Pampa Linda.This is a little tiny spot in the heart of Park Nacional Nahuel Huapi and gateway to walks near Monte Tronador. There´s a hosteria, restaurant, cafe, national park inf, camping and horses for hire.
We registered for our hike and headed off in the direction of Monte Tronador. The track is 4wd forthe first 3-4 kms and is well trodden by horses and humans so no need for navigation. You couldn`t stray too far off the trail anyways as there`s massive thickets of bamboo everywhere. We did a side trip for lunch up the valley to see Glacier Costana Overa pouring over the sides of the valley with loads of waterfalls and condors circling the top of the valley. Very spectacular.
From there, we returned to main track, picked up the big packs and headed up the steep, slippery climb to Refugio Otto Meiling. The forest was very beautiful with huge, old trees, bamboo and just lovely to walk thru. The track is a mess tho with shortcuts and erosion everywhere. There´s horses,mules and plenty people up and down here every day and looks like noone takes the same route which is a pity. Once we reached the treeline, the scenery was immense with Monte Tronador and the glaciers from it sweeping out in front and then all around the rest of the view was just mountains as far as the eye could see. The walk along the ridge to where the hut is is quite exposed but easy enough going aside from being up a mountain!
We got to the hut around 4.30 and went to register and find out what the story with camping was (its free, exposed, use the toilets in the hut) and also if we could do some walking on the glacier with the mountain guide. Turns out he was bringing out a group at 5.15pm so we quickly set up our tent in what we hoped was a reasonably sheltered spot, armed our tummies with a packet of biscuits, lots of water and nuts and headed out on the glacier 30 minutes after arriving which was a bit of a shock to the system!
The glacier walk was superb. For 100 pesos each (about 22 euros) we got 3hours on the glacier with a really good informative guide and all equipment provided (well boots, crampons, harness and ice axe). The tour was mostly in Spanish but he translated to English for us when we got stuck. Its really special walking on a glacier and as we learnt to trust our boots and crampons more (its incredible how well they stick to the ice) it just more and more fun. There was also an ice climb which I piked on as my fear of heights came rushing out in all its glory. In my defence the spot he choose was to launch off a crevasse at least 30m deep (altho I couldn´t really see the bottom) and to start at the top so I was just too scared (and had no spare pants to change into if it got stained!!). Dunk was well up for it and loved it. Got about 50 photos of him doing it so we will put a few of them online when we finda machine that doesn´t crap itself when we plug in the camera. Got pretty cold on the glacier tho as the clouds came over so in the end were happy enough to be finished. Also the boots are really stiff and make ya walk like someone who has been horseriding for 12 hours non stop so happy enough to get out of them too!
Quickly cooked up a good hot dinner and watched the stunning sunset over a vista of montains all around. Monte Tronador is actually 3 peaks - Pico Argentina, Pico Chile and Pico Internacional - which the Argentian- Chile border runs down the middle of (I will let you figure out which peak is where from the names!). We could see for miles and miles in all directions and it was just amazing. Slept like logs that night - a glacier hike and excitement after a 4 hour hike upto 2000m does that to ya! Also the hut ie Refugio Otto Meiling is amazing. Its completly concrete walled (no bricks), well insulated, and you can get all the food you need cooked up for ya plus sleep there. Being tight ass backpackers with our own equipment we obviously did it the independent way but would highly recommend a trip up there. The hut and camping site are located at the edge of a finger of rock that creeps up the side of glacier Costana Overa and peers over a cliff onto another glacier (cant remember the name) of the other side. Really incredible site.
The next morning we awoke to a glorious sunset. Took it niceand easy and wandered around the rocks above the shelter. There was an incredible amount of condors taking advantage of the rising winds so we decided to spend an extra night admiring the views and chilling out. After lunch the condors went nuts and it was the equivalent of a condor fest as upto 40 condors soared over, above and alongside the cliff running above the hut. They also landed on the ice on the glacier. We were slightly nervous eating lunch as we saw a condor poo near our tent and to be honest the thought of 2 litres of skanky, green, oozy, big-bird poo landing on a sandwich helped us wolf down lunch rapidly. These birds are massive ... like I know I can exagerate but its like having something the size of a pillow with a 1 metre wing each side and a goddamn ugly turkey head stuck to the front hanging over you. Their not the prettiest bird in the world but we´d have to go along way to see something as spectacular as this again. Also on a side note this is infinitely better then condor watching in Colca Canyon in Peru. After an hour or two or playing in the thermals they all suddenly decided to head off and that was the end of that show.
The winds had been picking up all day and were now blowing a gale. We had a reasonably sheltered spot behind a rock wall and made sure everything was pegged well. Dinner was a gusty, cold affair with ample sprinkles of rock dust and sand and no fear of burning your mouth as the wind cooled everything down quickly. We nearly lost our plates in washup and am sure everyone in the hut was highly amused to see us frantically dashing after them. We avoided the warmth of the hut cos nothing worse then the nice smell of toast and warm room knowing we had to spend the night in the tent! That night we didn´t sleep much. Its pretty difficult with the tent rattling and flapping so loudly we had to shout at each other to be heard. Its also slightly disconcerting to feel your body being lifted up in the tent by the larger gusts. Dunk did a quick mid night prowl to make sure everything was holding ok and it was. In the morning the wind was still roaring despite the rains having started. We found our backpacks and shoes (which were in the tents vestibules) covered (seriously coated) in a layer of dust and earth plus some of the finer stuff had got thru the tent fly so we know have slightly dusty bags, clothes, thermarests etc. Brekkie was in the tent as everything would have blown away or else been soaked. Also managed to pack our bags in the tent. Taking down the tent was a hazardous affair tho but we managed not to loose it or any of the pegs or poles. the 2 main poles on the tent now each have an identical bend which we presume was from the continous onslaught all night. Hope it wont make a big difference to the tent.
Headed off back down the ridge slowly as the wind threatened to send us paragliding with our packs a few times. Having a backpack in wind like that is pretty annoying as it acts like a sail and catches all the gusts. Made it to the treeline and it was like stepping into a different planet - calm, warmish and very pleasant. We did a side trip to a steep mirador of the valley just before Pampa Linda and then hung around for the 5pm bus. We piked a day early as the forecast was awful for sunday altho its not been too bad but we are 40kms from the mountains and it looks a lot gloomier out there.
Did our first dorm bed experience last night as well as there was only 2 beds left in the hostel and we couldn´t be bothered finding another place. The dorm I was in had 2 noisy buggers who took ages to pack up at 6am this morning (they had also woken me at midnight by turning on all the lights and having a loud conversation gggggrrrrrrr)- I was going to get up and help them cos they were making so much noise. Thankfully its back to ole-married-couple style travels tonight and we have our own room again ;)
We´re staying in Bariloche for the next few days to eat chocolate, icecream, good food and celebrate Paddy´s day and from there we will probably head to El Bolson. Running out of travel steam a bit and the novelty of living in a backpack is beginning to wear very old. Still thou all I have to do to recover my enthusiasm is remember those interminable daily morning defect meetings I used to have to go to this time last year and the backpack doesn´t seem so painful after all! I can hear all the pity ye have for us ... hahahaha! Anyways Happy Paddy´s day to everyone - we will drown the shamrock in Bariloche!
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