Woke up with minor hangovers (how can we have a 3 beer hangover - disgrace - am blaming the stuffy house we stayed in, someone will surely die of carbon monoxide poisoning there) but the sun was shining and Mount Fitzroy was towering above El Chalten (btw this town is built with the sole purpose of servicing tourists who come and see the mountains -they should have a shrine and say morning prayers of thanks to all the money it attracts there).
We decided to try and do a very quick turn around and start trekking that afternoon so we managed to buy food for 4 days trekking before the afternoon siesta, get our stinky clothes washed, eat lots of food (ahhhh fresh fruit, empanadas, pastries, yoghurt, drooooooollll) and book bus tickets to Rio Gallegos for friday morning. We made a brief attempt to check email and weather but failed as the connection was crap beyond belief.
Headed off around 4pm towards Laguna Torre and Campomento Agostini. There was some brief cloud around Mt Fitzroy but it cleared as we got nearer to the campground. The walk itself is medium uphill for an hour before reaching a stunning mirador of Mt Torre (which is like an obelisk of granite -very impressive), surrounded by more massive mountains ... and guess what more glaciers. Walked along the valley and reached the campground after about 3 hours, a little tired as the previous days 25kms with full packs had taken a bit of a toll. The campground is actually pretty nice considering how many people camp there. There was a stack of people (day walkers) walking out against us which was a shock again after the isolation of the previous 5 weeks hiking but all in all very beautiful and pleasant walking. Sat around for awhile above Laguna Torre (which is just above the campsite) after the sun set behind the mountains but was too cold to sit for long. The Israeli guys also joined us in getting out of town asap and all decided to rise for sunshine early the next day.
Sunrise is at 7am but we got up (stupidly) at 6.30am so had to wait until nearly 7.45 for the famous red fire effect to happen on Mt Torre. It was very spectacular once it happened tho and worth the wait and frozen fingers. The view and reflection across the lake was outstanding. Once again we´re in mind blowing scenery and its almost difficult to take it all in. The previous day we had been sad to think we were leaving the Carretera Austral and all that faboulous scenery but now once again we were in an area thats just stunning.
Headed off across the pass towards Campomento Poincenot once we had brekkie and packed up everything. Its about 10kms to the next camp site and very pleasant walking past 2 lakes which then becomes (once again) stunning scenery as Mt Fitzroy pops (as if something that big and spectacular deserves such a pathetic word) into view. Its just unbeleivable. Like we would walk 10 metres and want to stop and take a photo. Just unreal. Got to the campground which was packed and full of people (why as it was a beautiful day -they should have been up a mountain or something) and signs (toilet paper and poo everywhere plus loud, obnoxious ghouls) that muppets inhabited the region. We even saw a girl pee in the river despite signs everywhere not to pollute the waterways as they are good to drink and free from guardia etc. I seriously wanted to strangle her but its not my country (or my spanish isn´t proficient enough to ask "do you always pee in other people´s drinking water) so I restrained myself. We were well careful about where we got our water from there.
We threw off the packs and headed up to Laguna Los Trece. This is a steep climb above the campground which took us about an hour but the vista that unfolds as you walk is (ok I´m getting repitive) fantastic. This is just about as good as scenery can get. The lake is below the glaciers that form below MtFitzroy and surrounded by mountains on 3 sides and an open view of the valleys towards El Chalten on the other side. You can see for miles and its just so impressive. We lunched there as Mt Fitzroy and its slightly less high companion mountains towered above us. On the south side you can see down to Lake Sucia which is a deep blue and has waterfalls cascading into it from the glaciers down steep rock walls. We even had a few condors glide over and check it all out. There was lots of people but heaps of space for everyone.
From there, we headed back down to the campground and headed on (just not a pleasant atmosphere there. Seems like lots of (mainly Israelis) camp there for a few days and just seem to sit around being noisy. The wind picked up a lot ie into a gale so it was a hard enough walk to the next campsite (outside of the national park) at Piedra Del Frail. We followed the Rio Blanco down to the end of the valley over a rough enough river track which was a pain as the wind kept unbalancing us. From there headed up the valley Electrico along the Rio Electrico on a very easy slightly uphill track. Got into camp around 6.30 after about 26kms and about 7 hours walking so pretty tired.
Piedra Del Frail is a good sheltered campsite (altho way overpriced at 25 pesos per person even if there is a hot shower) which is necessary as the wind howls down that valley most days of the year. Some of the trees have no growth on one side! The next day we headed upto Cerro Electrico which is an 8kms, 1500m ascent/descent. This is probably one of the best day walks we have ever done. As we climbed (its damn steep), the mountains and southern ice cap just started to show more and more. The first highlight was reaching the glacier under FitzRoy (opposite side to the day before). Awesome and I just cant describe how amazing it was to be there. From there, we had to walk up scree for the second half of the walk. This was quite difficult, slow going as it was steep and a bit unstable but we got most of the way up under the wedge shape of the top of Cerro Electrico (or what we think is Cerro Electrico) for lunch. We could see Fitzroy, the southern ice cap, glacier marconi, all the way back up to Chile and the valley with Lago del Desierto, lakes, forest, down to the campsite (which was very very small). Got that tremendous buzz from being in such a fantastic place. After lunch, I sat around for awhile gathering my scattered brain thoughts (it wasn´t the best place to be if your afraid of heights) as Dunk carried on up the last 500m of scree. He got to the ridge on the top under the wedge but could go no further as it was glacier on the other side but we dont have crampons etc. All the dulce de leche (sweet, carmel spread with loads of sugar) got to my head so I ploughed (or whatever it is you do when going up scree) on for another bit and joined Dunk about 200m from the top on his way down. That extra bit made such a difference and I will never forget the feeling of almost like flying but so surreal of the view that spread in front of us.
From there it was downhill all the way, which was much easier and faster then going up - lots easier to jump out of unstable scree when going down then up. The poor ole knees weren´t happy at the bottom but we were but high from such an incredible day. Even writing this up and thinking back on the day is giving me a buzz (wow thats how cheap is that!!). Met a few climbers on the way down and wow I just cant even think about how incredible they must feel after climbing Fitzroy etc.
On the last day, we got up early ish -noone else in camp was up at 8am yet we often saw people hiking in or out of camp late in the evening. Darkness kicks in here at 11pm so the day is so different then from our trips in Australia. Walked up to see Laguna Electrico and then got curious so had to walk around the corner, up and over the boulders to look at the Rio Pollone - another stunning view up the side valley and also over towards Glacier Marconi. Took us 90 mins and didn´t have enough time to do more but would have been great to spend an extra day hanging around exploring that area. Headed back to camp around 11 where everyone was finally getting up. Headed back the way we walked in towards Campomento Poincenot. Stopped at Glacier Piedra Blanca and the lake at the bottom for lunch (Dunk had looked down on this glacier the day before from the ridge at the top). From there headed back to town via Laguna Capri which has probably the best views over Mount Fitzroy and the glaciers etc. Really beautiful. Could have stayed there for the night as it had a ovely camp spot and would have been fab for sunrise but had a bus to catch. Slogged it back into town for about 7km after another 25kms day. Stayed in the same hole as too lazy to move as we had to be up at 4am for the bus anyways. Got more steak and beers and loads of empanadas too so happy out.
Los Glaciers NP is incredible. Just when we thought our travels couldn´t get better, then once again they did. Despite the large number of people and the expense of El Chalten (make sure ya bring plenty Argentine pesos, euros or US dollars not Chile pesos as no way to get cash) its well worth going there. We have been truly haunted (for the aussies, in Cork lingo this means `your bloody lucky mate`) by the weather. We have had no rainy days since basically the start of January now in an area of the world which is renowned for rain, wind, awful summers and where your lucky if you get a glimpse of Mt Fitzroy. Instead we got sun, few clouds, a little wind and mostly perfect walking conditions. Our heads are overloaded with stunning images, great walking and very happy days for the last 6 weeks so we´re taking a break for a few days to take it all in.
For that we´re in Rio Gallegos (where there is nothing to see or do except eat fantastically cheap, tasty food) and heading to Ushuiua in Tierra Del Fuego tomorrow to the end of the world!! The weather there is rainy and cold ;) so we´re in for a shock.
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